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Routes in Muses

Efterpe S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Erato S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Thomas Michailides, Aris Theodoropoulous, 2000
Page Views: 28 total, 0/month
Shared By: Top Rope Hero on Oct 27, 2011
Admins: WAGbag, Luke Bertelsen, Jason Halladay

You & This Route


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Description

One of the celebrated nine muses, Erato the muse is reputedly the inspiration of all lyric poetry, especially love and erotic poetry. To be fair, Erato the climb LOOKS like it might send in a kind of wickedly delicious rock exotica.

But once you get on the thing you'll wish you had just stayed home and logged onto CumOnEileen or Nippolodian dot com for your triple X needs.

Erato moves up a big tufa system and bounces maddeningly between it and some fierce pinches on a pipe to the left. Then, in a tweak of oddness, you shuffle up chimney style between two sausage-y tufa systems that crumble more than a prom queen at a gay bar. (I have no idea what that means. See? No inspiration...)

Location

Center right of Muses wall, up tufas systems in the middle of an otherwise blank orangish section.

Protection

Eight or so quick draws and a NewAlpinestars RC Back Protector with kevlar moulded side pads, carbon fiber bushings and tri-adjusting expanded polymer couplingsĀ—all for those piranha-laced chimney moves.

Photos

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