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Routes in Dinas Mot

Diagonal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Nose Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Superdirect T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Ray Evans & Hank Pasquill, 1974
Page Views: 43 total, 1/month
Shared By: Rob Davies UK on Oct 26, 2011
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

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Description

P1: 5.7 (4b) 70' From the foot of the buttress head up and right, past spikes, traversing above a rock scar. Easy, but runners a bit sparse.
P2: 5.9+ R (5b) 130' Up to the overhang, good runner, then traverse delicately left to a thin crack in the slab. Follow this past a flake, getting easier higher up, to belay on a ledge.
P3: 5.10a (5b+) Past a flake above to a short corner and an overhang which is past by strenuous layaways (well protected).

Location

Start at the base of the Nose. Descend by down-climbing (tricky when wet) the gullies on either side of the Nose, or by abseiling these.

Protection

Plenty of wires and small cams.

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