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Routes in Main Wall

Anemodarmeni S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bubuki S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Carlo Juliani S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Climbers' Nest S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Donner S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Drama S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Ermix S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Homo Sapiens S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
K.V.R. S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Katsaplias S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kiria Rita S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Musical S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Neanderthal S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Opera S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Phineas S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rabat S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
TNT S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 82 ft
FA: Henry Bartu, Andreas Odermatt, Urs Neu. & Andrea Neiger, 2002
Page Views: 72 total · 1/month
Shared By: Top Rope Hero on Oct 17, 2011
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, Jason Halladay

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Description [Suggest Change]

Japanese for "I'm tired of missionary; can we try doggie fashion?" Not recommended for sushi bars or "proper" geisha houses.

A fun romp up technical edges, bomber jugs, side pulls, and an airy crux traverse just before the anchor chains. Very soft for the 10d grade given in the Aris guide.

Location [Suggest Change]

Find the second cave past the south goat pen, move right ten military paces to the left-facing corner on the left main wall, then count eight lines to the right and locate the swiss cheese pockets of "Drama," then take back one kadam to honor the Hebrew God, whose climb this is, and BAM! You're ready to start looking for Bubuki. (The climb, I mean, not the sex act.)

Or hell, just look for the damn name painted big in blue 'n' red at the base of the climb.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Thirteen-ish bolts to 2-bolt/2-'biner anchor. Anchor is starting to groove.

Photos

susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
Easier climbing leads to long reaches with good holds on steep ground. Recover before the flake/corner presenting some trusting move (although completely protected). The exit is polished and rounded with a bolt at your waist, just commit as the anchor is near and clips with ease.

13 bolts. Sep 13, 2017

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