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Routes in Main Wall

Anemodarmeni S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bubuki S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Carlo Juliani S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Climbers' Nest S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Donner S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Drama S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ermix S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Homo Sapiens S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
K.V.R. S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Katsaplias S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kiria Rita S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Musical S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Neanderthal S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Opera S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Phineas S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rabat S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
TNT S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Jens Seidel
Page Views: 64 total, 2/month
Shared By: Sarah Meiser on Jul 11, 2014
Admins: WAGbag, Luke Bertelsen, Jason Halladay

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Description

This is a great, steep face climb up well featured rock with lots of pockets and nice fluted limestone. Thinnest at the start and rather sustained and technical for the first 2/3 or so of its length.

Location

This route is on the right half of the main wall, just right of Drama.

Protection

Bolts. The last couple of bolts and the anchor are shared with Drama.

Photos

- No Photos -
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
I'm not sure how this route got 3 stars in the book and wish I had looked a the photo of the route before setting off.

The route starts on smallish holds on good rock which wander at the 3rd bolt. Moments later you'll find yourself looking for the bolt line, the one you figured was up there but just couldn't see from the ground. Nope, sorry the route ends abruptly at bolt 7. There are two chopped bolt shafts trending upwards or slightly right to a set of bushes which would have been the obvious location for the anchor. Without a unique line to follow you're forced left to finish the last 4 bolts and share the anchor of Drama.

This information is not described in the guidebook and likely to cause collision or inconvenience for any party wanting to do (or on) Drama.

Great wall with sticky rock but recommend avoiding until the route until realigned and once again an independent line. Sep 13, 2017