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Routes in True Summit Block

Asymptote S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cunning Linguist TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Malnourished S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Meltdown S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mickey B Way T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Sidewinder T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sunset Arete TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
True Summit Direct S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unnamed Free Route TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Vertigo T,S C2-
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 952 total, 13/month
Shared By: John Knight on Oct 7, 2011
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Wide Crack Testpiece of the Central Coast.

Location

The obvious wide crack roof that sits under the highest block on the mountain.

Protection

Gear to 4". Armbars, Chicken wings, Stacks, and Titanium Testicles. (Or titanium forearms for the female variety)

Photos

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Serial Crusher
A house
 
Serial Crusher   A house
 
To start, find a big undercling and stand on a block at the beginning of the crack. Deep heel toe cams and chicken wings are the key, although this section has gone down wild west inverted, too (feet straight into the roof). Find some crimps to exit the wide...fist and hands section is straightforward, but it's deep committing jams with hands and ankles alike. Redpoint crux for me was moving from the hands section back to OW just before the exit horn. Horizontal crack exit section felt 5.8 and took good gear. Easy to pre-place all but the final lip, no wide gear needed. youtube.com/watch?v=qOvPAE9… Jan 28, 2013