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Routes in True Summit Block

Asymptote S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cunning Linguist TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Malnourished S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Meltdown S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mickey B Way T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Sidewinder T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sunset Arete TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
True Summit Direct S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unnamed Free Route TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Vertigo T,S C2-
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: TBD
Page Views: 618 total, 8/month
Shared By: John Knight on Oct 7, 2011 with updates
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb the north side of the True Summit Block. Not sure if anyone has ever led or climbed this route. Rumor has it that it was bolted by Ryan Bello in the 80s or early 90s.

Location

The slot between the True Summit and the block with the Hiker's Register.

Protection

Bolts or Top Rope. Lead bolts need to be replaced.

Photos

Chris B. & Austin made a valiant attempt at Malnourished (while I took pics). I was hoping to get a sense of the grade but neither Chris nor Austin were able to get it. Ryan rated it 5.12 when he climbed it but I am fairly certain there are holds now missing. If anyone can confirm some interest in climbing it, I will donate the replacement bolts and help get them replaced. Mar 30, 2015
Chris Bersbach
Arroyo Grande, CA
  5.12+
Chris Bersbach   Arroyo Grande, CA
  5.12+
Thanks for the info, Ryan (just saw this comment!). I agree that Meltdown* is the better route, and *definitely* agree about the "getting off the ground" crux. That thing ain't playing.

  • I went ahead and added Meltdown to the database, based on your info and my single attempt on that route. Feel free to send/post any additional info that people might be interested in there, and I'll add it to the description: mountainproject.com/v/meltd…
Jul 15, 2014
Yes I bolted and climbed Malnourished. I rated it a 12 + have not been back on it in many years so don't know if any holds have broken. This route is in the gully. I was more proud of " Meltdown" on the arete facing west towards Diablo ...hence the name...meltdown. That went at 5.11 ish. The hardest part just getting off the ground. The arĂȘte stays in your left hand for most of the way. Nov 29, 2013
Chris Bersbach
Arroyo Grande, CA
  5.12+
Chris Bersbach   Arroyo Grande, CA
  5.12+
Worked on this route with Austin Moore, at the behest of John Knight, to see if we could verify the grade and/or unlock the crux sequence. It felt like 5.11- moves up to a very hard crux (V7/V8ish?), followed by 5.11+ moves to the top. Neither of us could quite manage the crux, but overall it wold probably iron out to something in the neighborhood of 13a/b. Of course, that's if a nothing breaks before someone manages to redpoint it. Jan 28, 2013