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Routes in True Summit Block

Asymptote S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cunning Linguist TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Malnourished S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Meltdown S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mickey B Way T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Sidewinder T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sunset Arete TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
True Summit Direct S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unnamed Free Route TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Vertigo T,S C2-
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Type: Trad, Sport, Aid, 70 ft
FA: John Knight, Kelly Farris, Bryan Caroll, Mark Sensenbach - Winter 2011
Page Views: 1,260 total · 16/month
Shared By: John Knight on Oct 7, 2011
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description [Edit]

Bishop Peak's best aid route? Maybe Bishop Peak's only aid route. Bring your aid tools and don't forget a hook. To reduce rope drag, set up an interim anchor at the edge of the lowest roof. Clip into the anchor, then pull the rope through the draws and drop it back down to your belayer. Enjoy the exposure as you weight your aiders and lean back behind you to clip the first bolt on the upper roof. It's a real "pucker"!

More info. here: centralcoastclimbing.blogsp…

Location [Edit]

Start in the lowest cave and work your way upside down out the first roof.

Protection [Edit]

Draws, slings, hooks. You'll figure it out when you get there.

Photos

adam winslow
Fort Collins, CO
  C2-
adam winslow   Fort Collins, CO
  C2-
The picture doesn't show how overhanging this route really is!
This route is great for practicing steep aid, cleaning and free hanging jugging. With a load of aid and free gear the hike took us an hour at a relaxed pace. Lots of poison oak after the left turn at the bench by the false summit. Jul 23, 2012
John Knight  
 
Great video Aaron. Thanks for posting. I couldn't help but see those bolts and think, "Hey, I recognize that bolt!"

Looks like that sling in the middle's getting a bit manky. Only a matter of time before some budding aid climber clips into it and goes, "I think this will hold. Oh, shhhhiiiii-----------!!!!!!"

Also, I see the rivet hanger has disappeared. All the better. I'm tempted to pull out a few of those good bolts and replace them with old, 1/4" buttonheads and Leeper Hangers. If a few hangers disappeared that would make it even better. Just a few, don't strip them all!








Jul 24, 2012
Ken Klis
  A0
Ken Klis  
  A0
FA was Ed Keefe back around 1990.

He borrowed my bolt kit for this and I should not of lent it out. Bolt ladders are not very useful 40 feet off the ground -- these are more appropriate for connecting major features on say a 2000' wall or such.

Weird when you see an FA claimed 20+ years after the FA.

The bolt ladders at Cerro Cabrillo (#3) detract much without any worthy benefit too. Sep 20, 2012
Tim Maas
Isla Vista, CA
  C2-
Tim Maas   Isla Vista, CA
  C2-
Gave it four stars because it doesn't deserve the one star it has. It's great for practicing cleaning on overhang and a spectacular view. You can't take a bad fall at any point and it's great for learning. Two bolt anchor on the diving board. Think it deserves two/three stars. Feb 24, 2017
Aaron Formella
Atascadero, CA
  C2-
Aaron Formella   Atascadero, CA
  C2-
Rack
13 quick draws (with 4 being alpine (extendable) draws)
1 wire rivet hanger
2 keyhole rivet hangers (large type, for leaving on 3/8" button head to clip as pro)
1 bathook or Talon (cliffhanger & grappling hook also work, but are not ideal and are a little less secure)
1 grappling hook or similar large hook (in case you can't reach rivet over lip of first roof)
A couple quick-links (in case needed to rappel or bail)
Piece of tie-off webbing or cord for bent hanger (in case missing or old)
Knife or razorblade for cutting off old tie-off tat

#2 & #3 Camalot work for bottom anchor in diagonal crack down and left of first bolt if soloing. You could also just tie the lead rope into the first 2 bolts to serve as the anchor.

Wear pants or bring knee-pads to protect yourself when pulling over the first overhang

I think the first hook move (shown as optional in the picture) is blown out; it looks more difficult to get a hook to stick around that area now. It can be bypassed by getting high on your aiders at the lip of the roof to reach the high rivet. It is easier to get high on your aiders in a situation like this if you attach two aiders to the bolt at the lip and have an aider for each foot; it provides more stability for moving your feet up. Kick one foot back behind you in opposition of the other foot in the aider out in front; this creates a sort of stem you can use to stand high when you're Fifi-ed in. The higher your Fifi, the better. Use the edges on the wall for your hands and lean back on your fifi while you walk your feet up each aider.

No cams are needed for the horizontal crack between the two bolt ladders since you can step high on the bat hook using jug holds on the lip of crack and then reach up to the first bolt on the second bolt ladder.

Cleaning the pitch on rappel is very difficult, but possible and requires down-aiding. Jan 2, 2018
Aaron Formella
Atascadero, CA
  C2-
Aaron Formella   Atascadero, CA
  C2-
Even though this aid climb is mostly a bolt ladder, it is still a good practice pitch because it climbs from an overhang to an under-vertical wall and again to an overhang, and requires rivet moves, figuring out how to deal with a smashed hanger, and a hook move. There is enough variation to provide a good learning experience that can be applied to big-walls. Just figuring out how to pull over the lip of the first roof is difficult and awkward enough that if you can do that, you should be confident that you can do the similar move on the Kor Roof, which is the crux pitch of the South Face of Washington Column, one of the 'easiest' beginner walls in Yosemite.

To step it up in difficulty, try rope-soloing it and adding hauling and retreat into the mix (good practice for rope-soloing a big-wall). Imagine and pretend the ground is not there and climb the pitch as if you can't just lower to the ground and walk back to the anchor. In this case it becomes rather challenging . Adding hauling into the mix increases the logistical difficulty, especially since the anchor up top is only a single bolt, so you must use the lead bolt just below it and it is a free-hanging belay. Rope-solo lead the pitch, fix the lead line, set up the haul system, rap the haul line and pull into the lower anchor without touching the ground, lower-out the haul bag, clean the pitch, haul the bag to the top anchor, then act like you're bailing and rap back down to the lower anchor (down-aiding required) making sure your haul bag and all your ropes are retrieved back to the lower anchor. For additional variation you could clean the pitch on rappel, then lower yourself out from the bottom anchor and do a free-hanging jug back up (try the more efficient frog method of ascending a free hanging rope). Jan 2, 2018

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