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> W Bluff
> W Bluff South
> 10. Ace of Spades
Lockoff Problem
V2 YDS 5+ Font
Avg: 2 from 1
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Early Access
Routes in 10. Ace of Spades
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Ace of Spades V8 7B |
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Aramandi V7 7A+ |
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Exit Through the Gift Shop V5 6C |
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Lockoff Problem V2 5+ |
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Pendulous Threads V7 7A+ PG13 |
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Right Bower V5 6C |
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| Type: | Boulder, 15 ft (5 m) |
| GPS: | 43.41861, -89.73782 |
| FA: | old school |
| Page Views: | 1,108 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Dylan Colon on Oct 1, 2011 |
| Admins: | Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding |
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Description
Start on good holds and shoot straight up the face, avoiding the left arete and the ledge system and corner out right. Gain a slopey crimp, get a good high foot, and pull down until the lip is within reach. This is listed as a 5.11b in Swartling's guidebook (3rd edition) but its height seems more fitting of a bouldering grade and listing.
Location
This is a ways above the Hogleg/Anchorpoint group. The problem is immediately right of the unnamed 5.5 chimney on Picnic Wall, and climbs the narrow face between that chimney and a ledge that is at 10-12 feet.
Or..
Same height on the hillside as Ace of Spades, 100 feet north across the talus gully on a scenic perch. Track Cracks is a sought after route on this wall.
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