| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 40.1739, -105.3617 |
| FA: | B Jasperson, 2002 |
| Page Views: | 680 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Sep 28, 2011 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
Description
This is the best climb on the crag, a measured compliment. The 2-star rating already assumes that you don't mind some runouts and obscure climbing; If you did not tolerate that, you would not be here, after all. As such, these are not considered detractors from the rather good climbing that is found on this route.
Start at the left edge of the main face of the crag, at the low point facing the river. Just left of this on a left-facing slab (aka a 'ramp' in Gillett's book) and climb up some runout but easy rock (5.6) and into a left-facing corner. Protect the climb and head up into a set of 2 corners onto a loose and crumbly looking tower of stone. Protection behind this would be dubious, but it seems solid to climb on, and not difficult. Our ascent had one of us going right onto the main face around the corner and climbing unprotected and harder moves, but at least there was no chance of dropping rock down on the belayer.... This might be the better route anyway. In any case, intersect the arete's right side from one way or the other at the area just above the top of the pillar and climb the face past a single bolt (and infrequent gear) to the top. Slopers dominate this slightly less than vertical face. Footwork or folly (fall-y) are your options.



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