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Routes in Stewardess Convention Crag

Aviatrix T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Flight Attendant T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Oxygen Masks and Float Cushions T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: B Jasperson, 2002
Page Views: 50 total · 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Sep 28, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is the best climb on the crag, a measured compliment. The 2-star rating already assumes that you don't mind some runouts and obscure climbing; If you did not tolerate that, you would not be here, after all. As such, these are not considered detractors from the rather good climbing that is found on this route.

Start at the left edge of the main face of the crag, at the low point facing the river. Just left of this on a left-facing slab (aka a 'ramp' in Gillett's book) and climb up some runout but easy rock (5.6) and into a left-facing corner. Protect the climb and head up into a set of 2 corners onto a loose and crumbly looking tower of stone. Protection behind this would be dubious, but it seems solid to climb on, and not difficult. Our ascent had one of us going right onto the main face around the corner and climbing unprotected and harder moves, but at least there was no chance of dropping rock down on the belayer.... This might be the better route anyway. In any case, intersect the arete's right side from one way or the other at the area just above the top of the pillar and climb the face past a single bolt (and infrequent gear) to the top. Slopers dominate this slightly less than vertical face. Footwork or folly (fall-y) are your options.

Location

This route is the leftmost side of the main face of Stewardess Convention Crag. It starts on the left edge at a ramp that leads up to left-facing corners and then to the right side of the arete up top, passing one protection bolt to a 2-bolt anchor.

Protection

A single set of cams from tiny to 3" and a set of stoppers. Take a set of slings heavy on 2' lengths since the gear wanders around and you will want to runner it to avoid a zipper. A 60m rope or longer will get you back down. A 50m will not.

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Ross Swanson
Pinewood Springs
Ross Swanson   Pinewood Springs
TR'ed a gap in the roof at 11-. Sep 13, 2017