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Routes in The Fortress

Aerial Act T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Big Crack T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Direct T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Eye Sockets T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Finger Crack T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Fortress Arete T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Fortress Clingon T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fortress Direct TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fortress Fingers T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gumbies Go Home T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Wes Love (free solo)
Page Views: 636 total, 8/month
Shared By: Eduardo Ramirez on Sep 20, 2011
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

This route is mostly a Top Rope route.

I tried to lead 'Direct' on 09/17/2011 and I had to trend closer to 'Big Crack' due to lack of protection on the face after the first two horizontal cracks.

I feel like this lead should be considered an 'X' or an 'R' due to the lack of protection above the second horizontal (unless you stay closer to 'Big Crack' which would then no longer be 'Direct').

I've since found out that this route was probably 'Head Pointed' (rehearsed on TOP ROPE until dialed/memorized) then sent on lead. This tactic is often employed on routes with repercussions such as a ground fall.

Either way, try it on Top Rope and see if you can stay 'Direct'.

Location

The blank face to the right of 'Big Crack'.

Left of 'Finger Crack'.

Protection

North Carolina Trad Rack. Small to large gear if leading. The face gets blank after the second horizontal crack.

Mostly Top Roped. Bring longer slings/webbing/cordelette for the two bolt anchor shared with 'Fortress Fingers' and 'Finger Crack'.

Photos

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