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Routes in Humphrey's Hollow

12 Weeks T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Adanedi T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Dusk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jason's Little Bumpy Thing S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Wing S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Max's Tight Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mud Slide Crack T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Procrastinator, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Real McCoy, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rear End Blues Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Smear Factor T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sorry Rob Two Fingers S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Spongeworthy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Sport, 40 ft
FA: Chris magness, 10/09
Page Views: 502 total, 7/month
Shared By: chris magness on Sep 18, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Harder than it looks! Technical and frictiony climbing. Place optional (and questionable) finger sized gear off the ground and climb to the first bolt (5.8, a little spicey) or stick clip. Optional .5 below the overlap. Crux at overlap using an upside down hold, sustained climbing/crimping to top. 2 bolt rap station after mantle.

Location

Mud Slide Crack wall. Drive north past Humphrey's Ledge main face. Park by Black Pudding Gulley (blue house with large boulder in yard).

Walk past the house and turn left at an obvious property line to the woods. Step left through some boulders and follow orange climbers tape up to the crag. Hike left 50' and look for a series of short cracks (12 Weeks, Rear End Blues). 5 minutes to here.

Continue climbers' left to another short and broken cliff band. Hike upward, the cliff betters in quality and grows in height. Smear Factor will be the first climb.

10 minutes from the car.

Protection

3 bolts and optional finger sized gear and optional .5

Photos

great route and an excellent find on the part of chris. Oct 30, 2011