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Routes in Humphrey's Hollow

12 Weeks T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Adanedi T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Dusk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jason's Little Bumpy Thing S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Wing S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Max's Tight Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mud Slide Crack T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Procrastinator, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Real McCoy, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rear End Blues Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Smear Factor T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sorry Rob Two Fingers S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Spongeworthy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c


The best way to describe this section is a bunch of small crags spread out on the very right side of Humphreys. Fun moderate single pitch climbing, very close to North Conway.

Getting There

Mud Slide Crack wall. Drive north past Humphrey's Ledge main face. Park by Black Pudding Gulley (blue house with large boulder in yard).

Walk past the house and turn left at an obvious property line to the woods. Step left through some boulders and follow orange climbers tape up to the crag. This will dump you out in front of Spongeworthy

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Humphrey's Hollow

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Wing
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sorry Rob Two Fingers
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Smear Factor
Trad, Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Adanedi 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Spongeworthy 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Little Wing 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Sorry Rob Two Fingers 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Smear Factor 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad, Sport
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No, it isn't a destination. It's a scrappy, backwoods crag. Although the approach isn't groomed, it's short and simple. By the sound of things, you didn't find the right areas. There are s few worthwhile climbs if you only have a short period of time and are feeling adventurous.

The Mud Slide Crack area is always free of moss and lichen and has 3 good quality routes.

Many of the climbs aren't in the Handren book because development occurred after the book was written. Oct 3, 2017
dragons   MWV, NH
Responding to the comment on Sep 9 2015: Humphrey's Hollow is, indeed, in the Handren guide, p 266. Routes listed: Rear End Blues, 12 Weeks, Mud Slide Crack, Sorry Rob, Smear Factor, Gentlemen of Leisure. May 12, 2017
Not really a worthy destination due to the moss that takes over the faces. Aug 2, 2016
Aaron Wohlfeil
Grand Rapids
Aaron Wohlfeil   Grand Rapids
Anyone have an update on this crag? Aug 2, 2016
(with due respect to first ascent parties and the work done to develop these routes)

This area is primarily overgrown, dirty, and unclimbable. The approach through the woods, although short, was a heinous bushwhack over loose, bouldery terrain of delicate vegetation. There is no longer a climber trail. Upon arriving, we had difficulty seeing more than one or two climbable routes. Bolts referred to in the write-ups may have been since removed. Moss and slime have taken over the rocks. There was a weird, creepy climbing rope hanging down from one of the cliff faces. Trudging around was difficult and sketchy, and we never found what appeared to be "good rock". It was confusing and disappointing.

It should be noted that this area is not in the Handren book. Seeing as he included almost every single conceivable crag in the area, this does not bode well for the feasibility of climbing at Humphrey's Hollow. Sep 9, 2015
joshua corbett
Wolfeboro NH
joshua corbett   Wolfeboro NH
Travis you want to walk right. Jul 24, 2013
Travis Dustin
Hollis, NH
Travis Dustin   Hollis, NH
If you are standing on the road looking at the large boulder do you walk right or left to the entrance into the woods? Jul 24, 2013

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