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Routes in Main Wall

A Thousand Ships T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cat Tracks T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
King of the Mountain T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Loosey In The Sky T,S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Manalive S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Priceless S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Touch Gold S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tremendous Trifles S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unknown S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wind Machine T,S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, Alpine, 115 ft
FA: Mark Tarrant, Richard Wright, 2011
Page Views: 761 total · 9/month
Shared By: Mark Tarrant on Sep 13, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Manalive is really two routes in one pitch. The relatively moderate but very pumpy first half can be done as a pitch in its own right. The more difficult second half completes the route, finishing at 115'.

The left-most bolted route in the West Sector is on high-quality stone. Launch up a gradually steepening wall to a chain anchor at 75'. This lower half comes in at .10+ despite having plenty of rests and no moves harder than about .10a -- it's just oddly pumpy. This is a very good "route" all by itself, and it's a good warm-up for the other routes on the wall. Well bolted by Richard.

(Note: The anchor at 75' is for lowering off the first half. It is not intended to be used as a belay anchor -- just clip it with a draw and continue climbing for the upper half).

The upper half changes gears immediately after leaving the chain anchor. A high clip starts the business, laybacking left into a flake and then sprinting up the steep wall on pretty good holds. Midway up this headwall you will traverse straight right (crux) to an insecure, blunt arete, crossing it briefly before more arete climbing takes you to the anchor. Again, it's the accumulation of moves that merit the .12a rating, not necessarily the technical difficulties which probably max out at .11c/d or so.

(Note: We found two ways to do the section below the crux traverse -- the route is bolted best for the 'easier' but perhaps less-obvious way).

"I am going to hold a pistol to the head of the Modern Man. But I shall not use it to kill him -- only to bring him to life." --GKC

Location

This is the left-most route in the West Sector at the base of The Halidome, about 80' up-slope from Wind Machine.

Protection

9 bolts + anchor for the lower half.
17 bolts + anchor for the entire pitch.
A 70m rope is mandatory if lowering off the top anchor.

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