Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Wayne, Chuck, and Ralph
Page Views: 392 total · 4/month
Shared By: P. Sully on Sep 13, 2011 with updates from Ralph Robertson and 1 other
Admins: Jay Shultis, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


8 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Private Property - Access Sensitive Details

Description

Blunt arete with (3 bolts) to a two bolt anchor on front side of iceberg. Start on right side of low roof and climb up left angling ramp/flake. you can place nuts here as first bolt is at top of this feature. Climb arete past first bolt then step right at 2nd bolt to face. climb face past 3rd bolt to two bolt anchor with rap rings.
there is an erroneous bolt with no hanger on the optional boulder problem direct start through roof (5.9+).

This route now has 5 bolts. Two bolts were added to make this a sport route; as it seems the newer generation of climbers have no nuts

Location

Front side of iceburg as you approach the cliff. rappel via fixed slings on tree or off shuts at top of chuck's route.

Protection

med stoppers, 5 bolts to anchors with rings.

Photos

The Farley
Sierra Eastside, CA
  5.8
The Farley   Sierra Eastside, CA
  5.8
A two bolt anchor with rap rings is on the route replacing the old studs at the top. Sep 15, 2013
Gavin Bailey
Yosemite National Park
Gavin Bailey   Yosemite National Park
This climb now has 5 bolts to two bolted anchors. awesome warm-up for the harder sport leads in this area. May 21, 2016
P. Sully
  5.8
P. Sully  
  5.8
so this has been retro bolted? who got permission from the FA party to add bolts to this route?

Why add bolts to this short climb?

It was already a great lead - all you needed was a few stoppers to get to the first bolt. The climbing through this section is 5.5 at most. Weak and unnecessary retro bolting IMHO May 22, 2016
Jay Shultis
Oneonta, NY
 
Jay Shultis   Oneonta, NY  
 
That's too bad. Paul, do you know the FA on this one? Jul 21, 2016