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Routes in 08. Iceberg Area

Barking Spiders S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bozippity T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chucks Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cool Whip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Cotton Candy Chopper V0-1 4+
Debasaurus Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dihedral Diversion T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Green Carpet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iceberg Arete T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Icebreaker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Icecapades T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Inflatable Forearms S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
K.P.Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
P-7 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Petting Zoo T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Phat Back S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Playing Hookie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sassafras T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tip of the Iceberg T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
West Virginia Clam Bake T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Wayne, Chuck, and Ralph
Page Views: 329 total · 4/month
Shared By: P. Sully on Sep 13, 2011 with updates
Admins: Jay Shultis, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Private Property - Access Sensitive Details

Description

Blunt arete with (3 bolts) to a two bolt anchor on front side of iceberg. Start on right side of low roof and climb up left angling ramp/flake. you can place nuts here as first bolt is at top of this feature. Climb arete past first bolt then step right at 2nd bolt to face. climb face past 3rd bolt to two bolt anchor with rap rings.
there is an erroneous bolt with no hanger on the optional boulder problem direct start through roof (5.9+).

This route now has 5 bolts. Two bolts were added to make this a sport route; as it seems the newer generation of climbers have no nuts

Location

Front side of iceburg as you approach the cliff. rappel via fixed slings on tree or off shuts at top of chuck's route.

Protection

med stoppers, 5 bolts to anchors with rings.

Photos

Jay Shultis
Oneonta, NY
 
Jay Shultis   Oneonta, NY  
 
That's too bad. Paul, do you know the FA on this one? Jul 21, 2016
P. Sully  
 
so this has been retro bolted? who got permission from the FA party to add bolts to this route?

Why add bolts to this short climb?

It was already a great lead - all you needed was a few stoppers to get to the first bolt. The climbing through this section is 5.5 at most. Weak and unnecessary retro bolting IMHO May 22, 2016
Gavin Bailey
Yosemite National Park
Gavin Bailey   Yosemite National Park
This climb now has 5 bolts to two bolted anchors. awesome warm-up for the harder sport leads in this area. May 21, 2016
The Farley
Idaho Springs
  5.8
The Farley   Idaho Springs
  5.8
A two bolt anchor with rap rings is on the route replacing the old studs at the top. Sep 15, 2013

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