Elevation: 1,464 ft
GPS: 37.476, -80.87 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 147,121 total · 1,125/month
Shared By: Michael Rose on May 26, 2009 with improvements by Doug Smith
Admins: Jay Shultis, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones
Access Issue: Private Property - Access Sensitive Details

Description

Routes
Short cliff band outside of Bozoo, WV at the Shanklin's Ferry campground. Rarely crowded with a decent variety of routes. Most of the routes are south facing but are shaded well by foliage in summer. Routes here are generally Trad or Mixed with an occasional Sport climb. Top-roping is often easy to setup and is a great place to learn, as well as push your limits. Several of the climbs have rap anchors in the popular areas. The code of ethics is Traditional. If you wish to do any development it is asked that you reach out to those who have come before you and work out a plan. There is room for all to share a vision at this nice little crag!

Topo
Paul Sullivan created an awesome topo that many of us had poorly copied versions of "back in the day." Ian Herring dug up an early clean version and scanned it in, Paul has typed on top of that many of the lined climbed in his groups last round of development as well as the few lines that have gone up since. Utilizing this topo in combination with the info in this database should assist your efforts in exploring the lesser known climbs of the area. It prints well. FYI, there are still errors, and some of the TR projects have since been led, but it is a great start and we will continue to polish this pebble over time. Bozoo Route Topo

Geology
The rock type is often thought to be the same as found at the New River Gorge: Nuttall Sandstone. Actually the rock found at Bozoo is technically part of the Hinton Formation. It often is more compacted than the rock at the New, often creating a smooth bullet hard patina. Geology Formations

Bouldering
While Bozoo is considered an excellent "local" crag. The bouldering is above and beyond your average run of the mill local spot. The deteriorating cliff band has provided us with 2.5 miles of boulders and "mini-cliff" made of coveted, bullet hard, fine grain, sandstone. Many people have experienced samplings of the Main Area below the Iceberg Wall. Areas have been developed from Shanklin's Ferry road all the way till the boulders finally stop appearing several miles down stream. The rock is generally featured, but you do not find an over-abundance of holds. This creates an excellent bouldering experience where problem solving is crucial. You will find all kinds of problems here, but it is amazing how many beautiful lines exist here in the V4-V8 Range. At this time there are no known double digit lines, but there is opportunity knocking if you can push those numbers up.

Getting There

Tricky - use the GPS location or the mobile app!

Going East on 460 from Blacksburg. Turn Right on Rt 219 at Rich Creek, Va. (just past the town of Narrows and a really curvy section of road along a rock cut). Follow 219 as it makes an immediate right then an immediate left. Go 1.75 miles and turn Left onto Rt. 12 about a half mile after the Family Dollar store. Go 1.1 miles then take a slight Left onto Bozoo Rd. (no sign) just past a sharp righthand curve and Stanley Hill Rd. (If you start going up a long hill, you have gone too far). Go 5.5-6 miles then take a slight Left onto Shanklin's Ferry Rd. at the Bozoo Christian Church that is on the righthand side of the road. Go 1.7 miles to a sharp righthand curve followed immediately by a sharp lefthand curve then .4 miles later stay left onto Shanklins Ferry rd. at the Shanklin's Ferry Campground and WV State Park sign. Go down the curvy hill .9 miles to a slight Right onto a gravel road. A sign there directs you to a Boat Launch, Beach, and Playground. This is just past the sign stating that Beer and Alcohol are prohibited in the park. Follow Gravel road .6 miles to the Self Register Kiosk and then go right. Park on the lefthand side of the road just before it curves left, across from campsites 78 and 79. The trail leaving the campground from behind campsite 79 goes to the downstream areas (Simpson's, Bovine, Bond). The trail leaving the corner of the field approximately 100 yards to the right of campsite 79 goes to the upstream areas (Savory, White, Iceberg, and Necro).

347 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Bozoo

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V2 5+
 5
F: Balance Arete
Boulder
V4-5 6B+
 3
Sloper Madness
Boulder
V5-6 6C+
 5
French Tits
Boulder
V6 7A
 5
Roadside Euphoria
Boulder
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 9
Thru-Mortise
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
Sassafras
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 14
Birth Canal
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 17
Barking Spiders
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
Groove Machine
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Savory Truffle
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 9
Tip of the Iceberg
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 9
Bovine Crack
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
Recycle Your Soul
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 3
Rigor Mortise
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 4
Marge
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
F: Balance Arete Bozoo Bouldering > Downstream Boul… > A: Air Jordy Boulder
 5
V2 5+ Boulder
Sloper Madness Bozoo Bouldering > … > BoulderCliff Area > Sloper Madness Boulder
 3
V4-5 6B+ Boulder
French Tits Bozoo Bouldering > Project Area > Ape Rage Boulder
 5
V5-6 6C+ Boulder
Roadside Euphoria Bozoo Bouldering > … > Rdside > Rdisde Euphoria Boulder
 5
V6 7A Boulder
Thru-Mortise 04. Rigor Wall
 9
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Sassafras 08. Iceberg Area
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Birth Canal 09. White Wall
 14
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Barking Spiders 08. Iceberg Area
 17
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Groove Machine 09. White Wall
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Savory Truffle 10. Savory Area
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Tip of the Iceberg 08. Iceberg Area
 9
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Bovine Crack 05. Bovine Area
 9
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Recycle Your Soul 10. Savory Area
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR
Rigor Mortise 04. Rigor Wall
 3
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Marge 02. Simpson Wall
 4
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
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