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Routes in 08. Iceberg Area

Barking Spiders S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bozippity T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chucks Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cool Whip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Cotton Candy Chopper V0-1 4+
Debasaurus Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dihedral Diversion T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Green Carpet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iceberg Arete T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Icebreaker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Icecapades T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Inflatable Forearms S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
K.P.Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
P-7 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Petting Zoo T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Phat Back S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Playing Hookie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sassafras T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tip of the Iceberg T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
West Virginia Clam Bake T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 195 total, 2/month
Shared By: Sam Stephens on Mar 21, 2010 with updates
Admins: Jay Shultis, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Private Property - Access Sensitive Details

Description

The right hand bolt line in the corridor behind the Iceberg. Goes up vertical face through crimpy edges.

Protection

4 bolts to glue-in anchors with rings.

Photos

Andy B.  
I was told that the original route had a chain anchor but was stolen/removed and never replaced. Apr 27, 2017
Jay Shultis
Oneonta, NY
  5.11d
Jay Shultis   Oneonta, NY  
  5.11d
It should also be noted that the FA of this route purposely set the route with no anchor. The routes are so short at Bozoo he expected a topout. Anchors are in now, I suppose, but if you want to climb in the FA's style then keep that in mind! Apr 23, 2017
This route was put up by Swiss Andy & friend in the late 90s with homemade hangers that he brought with him from Switzerland and carbon steel bolts. He also put up Silence (revelation of doom) on the Necro Wall with the same hardware, so beware of those bolts. Apr 6, 2017
Andy B.  
I replaced all of the bolts and hangers on this climb and installed a new set of glue in anchors. The bolts were sheering off during the extraction process they were so corroded. Apr 3, 2017
The homemade hanger (stainless?) has caused serious galvanic corrosion on the carbon steal bolts. There's also a bolt without a hanger at the top, although there's a very rusty bolt 3 feet below it, if that's worth anything.

Overall this is a amazing climb, if I could only link all the moves... Jul 18, 2014
Jay Shultis
Oneonta, NY
  5.11d
Jay Shultis   Oneonta, NY  
  5.11d
This is a classic line with amazing movement. Only drawback is the length, fairly short, even for the area, technical start, moves into some bouldery laybacks with a crimpy finish. Should be "Inflatable Forearms" Mar 24, 2011