Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 262 total · 2/month
Shared By: Sam Stephens on Mar 21, 2010 with updates from Andy B.
Admins: Jay Shultis, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Access Issue: Private Property - Access Sensitive Details

Description

The right hand bolt line in the corridor behind the Iceberg. Goes up vertical face through crimpy edges.

Protection

4 bolts to glue-in anchors with rings.

Photos

Jay Shultis
Oneonta, NY
  5.11d
Jay Shultis   Oneonta, NY  
  5.11d
This is a classic line with amazing movement. Only drawback is the length, fairly short, even for the area, technical start, moves into some bouldery laybacks with a crimpy finish. Should be "Inflatable Forearms" Mar 24, 2011
The homemade hanger (stainless?) has caused serious galvanic corrosion on the carbon steal bolts. There's also a bolt without a hanger at the top, although there's a very rusty bolt 3 feet below it, if that's worth anything.

Overall this is a amazing climb, if I could only link all the moves... Jul 18, 2014
Andy B.  
I replaced all of the bolts and hangers on this climb and installed a new set of glue in anchors. The bolts were sheering off during the extraction process they were so corroded. Apr 3, 2017
This route was put up by Swiss Andy & friend in the late 90s with homemade hangers that he brought with him from Switzerland and carbon steel bolts. He also put up Silence (revelation of doom) on the Necro Wall with the same hardware, so beware of those bolts. Apr 6, 2017
Jay Shultis
Oneonta, NY
  5.11d
Jay Shultis   Oneonta, NY  
  5.11d
It should also be noted that the FA of this route purposely set the route with no anchor. The routes are so short at Bozoo he expected a topout. Anchors are in now, I suppose, but if you want to climb in the FA's style then keep that in mind! Apr 23, 2017
Andy B.  
I was told that the original route had a chain anchor but was stolen/removed and never replaced. Apr 27, 2017