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Early Access
Routes in Area 51
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Alien Hot Rod T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Government Conspiracy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Little Blue Doctors S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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North By Northeast T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Red Scare T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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UFO T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 40.19651, -105.32108 |
| FA: | Huggins, Hudgel |
| Page Views: | 1,377 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | slim on Sep 13, 2011 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays
Details
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
Description
Alien Hot Rod is a nice crack/seam/flake sort of line that splits the left side of a nice granite face on the west side of Area 51. There is a little bit of small vegetation here and there, but it didn't seem to interfere with the climbing. Climb the crack using a variety of techniques. At the top of the crack, bump to the right (feels kind of contrived here) towards the top, and roll over onto an easy slab up to the anchor.
3 star climbing but total bomb for bolting a perfectly protectable crack (and ironically producing a route that isn't as well protected).
Location
Alien Hot Rod is on the far right side (west face) of Area 51. Just after you round the northwest corner, there is a thin crack up a vertical face with bolts on the right side of the crack. This is Alien Hot Rod.
Protection
The crack is bolted, but be cautious getting to the 2nd bolt. It is a big reach to clip it, and if you blow it, you (and/or your belayer) might be in trouble. Near the top there is a bolt that sticks out about 1/2" or so. It is not exactly high quality craftmanship here.
Better yet just do it on gear. Bring a standard rack to #1 Camalot. I used a gold Ballnut at the crux and the piece looked good.
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