Type: Sport, 200 ft (61 m)
FA: Rob Griz, Carrie Ginieczki
Page Views: 8,045 total · 68/month
Shared By: Rob Griz on Sep 10, 2011
Admins: Joey Chicharrones, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

"Aces High" follows a steep buttress 20m left of the toe of the Chimney on the Royal Headwall. This line is 80m left of the standard Royal Flush line that climbs the apron to the chimney. The full 60m route begins in a flat landing between the largest trees at the base of the end of the headwall chimney at a large, detached flake. Stand atop the flake and clip the first bolt and let the game begin. The second bolt is high above behind a 8’ pine. Follow the bolts straight above, over a steep slab and 3 small roofs, to a pair of double ring anchors on Lovers' Ledge. From the anchors, rap with 2-60m ropes OR traverse 20m right on Lovers' Ledge to the first set of 2-bolt anchors on Royal Flush and continue on up from there OR move another 5m right to the 2nd set of Royal Flush anchors and climb up from there (best pitch on the Flush!). You could potentially rap with one 60m rope from the Royal Flush anchors to the chimney/slab anchors, and do one more partial rap down the slab, staying close to the slot, and downclimb the 5.4 slab for 30m to the talus field/base. This route has been bolted a bit differently from the Royal Flush, a bit more spicy/spacious. Enjoy, the bolts are there where you need them and it offers an exciting alternative/bypass to the excellent Royal Flush line.

Location

You will find the start 80m left of the standard Royal Flush line that climbs the apron to the chimney. The route begins in a flat landing between the largest trees at the base of the end of the headwall chimney at a large, detached flake. Another option is to begin 10m left of the chimney end and traverse in left to the 5' pine and begin from there on bolt #2. There are a few small pines then a larger group, the route begins within the larger group. A large, detached flake that sits on the ground on your right marks the true start. Rap the route (with 2-60m ropes)or continue to the top via Royal Flush.

Protection

16 bolts in 60m. You could try to augment with thin pro (#000- #2 C3s), but skill will prevail over gear. Finishes on Lovers' Ledge with 2-double ring Fixe anchors. Rap (with 2 ropes) or traverse right (20m) on the ledge to Royal Flush.

Photos