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Routes in Mount Royal (near Frisco)

Aces High S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crown Royal T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Far West, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Royal Flush S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Royal Rocklette ArĂȘte T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 200 ft
FA: Rob Griz, Carrie Ginieczki
Page Views: 4,898 total, 65/month
Shared By: Rob Griz on Sep 10, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

"Aces High" follows a steep buttress 20m left of the toe of the Chimney on the Royal Headwall. This line is 80m left of the standard Royal Flush line that climbs the apron to the chimney. The full 60m route begins in a flat landing between the largest trees at the base of the end of the headwall chimney at a large, detached flake. Stand atop the flake and clip the first bolt and let the game begin. The second bolt is high above behind a 5' pine. Follow the bolts straight above, over fresh lichen (slippery on the steep slab) and 3 roofs, to a pair of double ring anchors on Lovers' Ledge. From the anchors, traverse 20m right on Lovers' Ledge to the 2-bolt anchors on Royal Flush and continue on from there or rappel with 2-60m ropes. You could potentially rap with one 60m rope from the Royal Flush anchors to the chimney/slab anchors, and do one more partial rap down the slab, staying close to the slot, and downclimb the 5.4 slab for 30m to the talus field/base. This route has been bolted a bit differently from the Royal Flush, a bit more spicy/spacious. Enjoy, the bolts are there where you need them and it offers an exciting alternative/bypass to the excellent Royal Flush line.

Location

You will find the start 80m left of the standard Royal Flush line that climbs the apron to the chimney. The route begins in a flat landing between the largest trees at the base of the end of the headwall chimney at a large, detached flake. Another option is to begin 10m left of the chimney end and traverse in left to the 5' pine and begin from there on bolt #2. There are a few small pines then a larger group, the route begins within the larger group. A large, detached flake that sits on the ground on your right marks the true start. Rap the route (with 2-60m ropes)or continue to the top via Royal Flush.

Protection

16 bolts in 60m. You could try to augment with thin pro (#000- #2 C3s), but skill will prevail over gear. Finishes on Lovers' Ledge with 2-double ring Fixe anchors. Rap (with 2 ropes) or traverse right (20m) on the ledge to Royal Flush.

Photos

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D. Snyder
Golden, CO
  5.10-
D. Snyder   Golden, CO
  5.10-
FYI, the Beta photo provided for this variation is NOT Aces High. May 15, 2017
Grant Mills
  5.10b
Grant Mills  
  5.10b
Very fun route, but the moves are consistently harder than the 5.10 variations lower on Royal Flush. This climb felt true to its grade, whereas the ratings on lower moves are a little soft. Very fun variation that definitely spiced up Royal Flush for our group. I haven't done the standard pitches 13-14, but I'm not sure I'm ever going to after this climb (unless I'm having a high gravity day). Sep 6, 2016
brucelacroix
Portland, OR.
  5.8+
brucelacroix   Portland, OR.
  5.8+
Led this pitch. I'm not a 5.10 leader. I'm not a 5.9 leader. Felt like 5.8 to me. Some days are better than others. Jul 10, 2016
Stich Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
Stich Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
This pitch is better than most of the pitches on Royal Flush. So definitely do it, and then walk along the ledge right to join the final pitches of RF. Aug 23, 2015
nate post
Silverthorne
 
nate post   Silverthorne
 
I think this was excellent! I could see where the lichen used to be, but I would say it has cleaned up nicely, solid rock and mostly clean. If you're like me and have already done Royal Flush a couple times, this variation is well worth doing. Good work on the route, guys, thanks for seeing this line and equipping it. May 31, 2015
jamandbees
Boulder, Colorado
 
jamandbees   Boulder, Colorado
 
If you're working on Royal Flush, this variation is well worth seeking out. Echoing Erik's comment, there was a fair bit of wet moss on the route. If the route was cleaner, I'd have rated it as a classic climb. Jul 14, 2013
Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
  5.10
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
  5.10
Very fun variation to the route "Royal Flush"! We spotted the bolt line when at the base of the headwall looking for the next Flush pitch and decided to give it a go. Long and quite sustained, this was definitely the crux and highlight of the route.

Word of caution --- this route is still a little dirty with a good amount of lichen and will be slippery for quite a while after getting wet. It had rained the day previous to when we climbed it, and trusting your feet became a major issue. Just a heads up. Jul 13, 2013
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
Just to be more clear, this is the variation that is shown on the picture of the headwall on the Royal Flush description. i.e. it is an alternative to pitches 13 and 14 of Royal Flush. It does NOT start down near the bike path.

That said, it is a great pitch, and definitely the hardest and most sustained, when combined with the rest of Royal Flush. Part of the spice for us came with the wind that kicked up right at the crux, for both of us! I suspect that is a windy spot much of the time, as it is right on the arete at that point. Thanks, Griz!

Doug Redosh (Al Margolis' friend) Aug 22, 2012
D Sharp
Boulder, CO
  5.10-
D Sharp   Boulder, CO
  5.10-
The route starts at N39 34.290 W106 06.568. Amazing pitch, which is about to get a bit harder. The nice positive ledge left and below the third bolt is about to come off.

Rope drag can also be a bit of an issue, so make sure to use long slings.

Oh, and thank you to the folks who bailed off the third bolt for the BD oval ;) We'll make sure to pass it on when the time comes to bail off a route. Jul 22, 2012
Brian Pappas
silverthorne CO
Brian Pappas   silverthorne CO
Thanks, Rob and Carrie, another fine line on Royal. Sep 11, 2011
Nice work, Rob! I look forward to climbing more of your fine work, and I saw you put up 2 more routes on White Cliff...right on. Sep 11, 2011