Type: Trad, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: P. Johnson
Page Views: 1,924 total · 28/month
Shared By: Taylor-B. on Jun 30, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Gain the upper Royal face by climbing the lower pitches of Royal Flush or Royal Rocklette. Bushwhack and scramble west towards the right hand skyline of the Royal face, look for a left-facing corner with a hand crack about 100 feet off the ground.

Pitch 1. Climb a clean, run-out slab through some suspicious flakes, pull a protected overlap to gain the left-facing, corner-hand crack 5.6 R, 100 feet. Build a belay (#2 BD) in the corner next to a small tree.

Pitch 2. Step over the tree to the right. shoot up through some steep terrain with good gear and good holds, 5.6, 120 feet. Belay at a nice ledge off of a big boulder.

Pitch 3. Traverse left out into some blocky cracks, then hop over to the right side of the buttress and climb up the groove, take care on what you pull on, 5.6, 120 feet.

Pitch 4. Climb up the arete, 5.5, and belay on the large terrace above the central chimney.

Pitch 5. Climb up super lose terrain or climb a nice 5.7 finger crack to the left of a pine tree, 50 feet.

Descend down the Mt. Royal trail.


SR up to a BD #3.


Alex Banas   CO
Four star route for SC rock!! Jul 1, 2013
Another good addition to Mount Royal climbing. Thought it was a little stiff for the 5.6 rating at times and would not recommend the route for your first 5.6 alpine route. Lots of variations exist on pitches 2 and 3. This route will become popular as the the route cleans up, and it definitely needs a little cleaning! One of the best routes for the grade in SC! Jul 17, 2013