Royal Rocklette Arête
Avg: 1.9 from 11 votes
|Type:||Trad, 1500 ft, 18 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||James Garrett, Tim Toula, and Peter Krainz, 26 July, 2010|
|Page Views:||6,156 total, 69/month|
|Shared By:||James Garrett on Aug 3, 2010|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis new addition climbs lower wall slab (The Raclette) pitches and joins the Royal Flush variation pitches at the middle sector and then horizontally crosses the boulderfield and continues up the Northeast Ridge (arete) to the summit of Mount Royal. For clarity, the 2nd and 3rd class sections are counted as pitches. The first 7 (most frequently climbed) pitches may be confused for being part of Royal Flush but can serve as an alternative start to avoid crowding on RF.
The route was equipped and climbed and cleaned ground up. With that said, wear helmets and pull down with caution and mindful of other climbers. Very fun! In general, the rock is excellent.
Though a "Plaisir" (casual, fun, well protected) climb like Royal Flush, one move of obligatory 5.10a climbing is required. All belays are bolted.
Approach as for Royal Flush and find the start about 25m up and right. Once on route and following the cairns on the mid sector scree fields, it is pretty straightforward to stay the course.
Pitch #1: Easy slab up great rock to a two-bolt belay. 5 bolts, 5.5, 30m.
Pitch #2: Continue up a short section with fun features. 2 bolts, 5.5, 15m.
Pitch #3: Climb beautiful rock up and right passing a small overhang. 5 bolts, 1 piton, 5.7, 20m.
Pitch #4: Climb straight up to the big ledge at the base of the White Crystal Dike Pitch of Royal Flush to a two bolt belay. 1 bolt, 5.5, 15m.
Pitch #5: Continue straight up from the anchors up great rock to a cruxy overhang. 6 bolts, 5.10b, 25m.
Pitch #6: As for Royal Flush, cross a broad ledge and climb a face to a faint spur to the Res von Känel memorial plaque belay. 5 bolts, 5.8, 25m.
Pitch #7: A short pitch to finish the lower wall. 2 bolts, 5.5, 15m.
Pitch #8: Move right around a tree and gain a big ledge. Follow cairns to the left as for Royal Flush and hike to the base of the "white rib" pitch. 3rd class, 100m.
Pitch #9: Climb the excellent white rib pitch to a two-bolt belay next to a dead snag. 6 bolts, 5.7, 20m.
Pitch #10: Climb straight up passing interesting, small roofs and facial features finishing the mid-wall sector. 7 bolts, 5.8, 25m.
Pitch #11: Now you are on the upper boulder field where cairns will lead you either straight up to the Royal Flush Apron or for RRA, follow cairns that lead left and to the base of the rock. Continue on a trail to the base of the NE arete. A piece of red tat is tied around a tree marking the start of the following pitches. 2nd class, 150m.
Pitch #12: Climb up the slab to the first of several overhangs. The first roof past the 2nd bolt is the well-protected, tricky crux. Surmount it and continue up easier terrain past a white crystal rockband to the next interesting overhang and continue to the belay on a small ledge. 7 bolts, 5.11a, 25m.
Pitch #13: Climb straight up to a roof and turn it to the right and continue up the beautiful, blunt arete to a nice belay ledge. 6 bolts, 5.10a, 30m.
Pitch #14: Move up and right past a steep step finishing the pitch climbing a pillar-like section avoiding some looseness to the belay. 3 bolts, 5.7, 30m.
Pitch #15: Wall Register here...spray away. Dirty and loose, but easy climbing up some cruxy steep step-like features to a two-bolt belay. 4 bolts, 5.8, 50m.
Pitch #16: Bearing right or as much on the ridge as possible, pass a bolt on a dirty slab to another steep step. Climb some face moves to an OW and the final two bolt belay. 2 bolts, 5.6, 50m.
Pitch #17: Climb through steep boulders, some sections of which are quite loose and belay where needed. 4th class, 60m.
Pitch #18: Continue on easy scrambling to El Cumbre. 4th class, 60m.
Descend via the Mount Royal Hiking trail to the south.