Avg: 2.9 from 295 votes
|Type:||Sport, 1500 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Tim Toula and Peter (der Oestereicher) Krainz, September, 2009|
|Page Views:||73,257 total, 812/month|
|Shared By:||James Garrett on Jun 29, 2010|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionExcellent approach and descent info is here: Mount Royal (near Frisco)
This is a 5.8 climb put up by a 5.13 climber for 5.8 leaders. This route is so much fun, I know I will be driving back all the way from Utah to do it again soon. Thanks to the hard work of Texas Tower Tim Toula, the climbers of Frisco have their own little "Big Wall" that is intelligently protected, with harder variation pitches available for those seeking more challenging climbing, with excellent pitch after pitch of outstanding climbing.
MANY OF THE 15-30m PITCHES MAY BE LINKED OR SIMUL-CLIMBED. The stated number of roped pitches is for clarity, ease of route finding, and ease of partner communication. With that said, when linking pitches, verbal and/or visual communication may be seriously impaired or impossible due to the wandering nature of the route as well as incessantly loud noise pollution from busy I-70. The route offers super fun cruising with memorable movement.
All belays are bolted. Please leave the rappel links and/or carabiners left at the stations for those who need to rappel the route. Many people new to multi-pitch climbs may choose to only climb the lower wall and these stations have been bootyed and re-equipped already numerous times since initially equipping the route. Although first thought to be intended for those new to this type of climbing, popularity has soared raising the number of ascents (as of Nov 2012) to more than 600!
At almost the lowest point or toe of the granite at the base of the climb (7-10 minutes approach time from the car), a nice rope up ledge will be found. Up and right is the start to Royal Rocklette Arete.
[Editor's Note: This was originally submitted as a 20 pitch route, but I doubt anyone has ever done it in that many. With a 60m, it is easy to do in 6-8 roped pitches, plus some unroped walking. Judging from comments and my own experience, that is the norm, so I have changed the official pitch count to 8. See comments for common ways to link pitches. My preference:
P1-3: combine #1-12 below with some walking easy. There are so many anchors, just pick one when you think you're running out of rope.
P4: combine #13-14 below
P5: combine #15-16 below
P6: combine #17-20 below
Pitch #1: Climb up the middle of the slab past a couple of bolts passing few obstacles to a two-bolt belay platform. 5.4, 20m.
Pitch #2: Follow a black streak straight up to another two-bolt belay. 5.5, 15m.
Pitch #3: Pass an overlap protected by a bolt and some natural protection opportunities to a two-bolt belay. 5.6, ~15m.
Pitch #4: Lead up and right passing 4 -5 bolts. Four different variations are available for this pitch alone, which may lead to some confusion, but trend right for the ongoing pitches. 5.6, 15m.
Pitch #5: Choose 5.10 out slightly left or 5.6 angling right and up a groove to a White Crystal rock spur to one of 2 two bolt belays. 5.6, 20m.
Pitch #6: Traverse right (or down & right from the 5.10 var on P #5) on a narrow ledge to a tree and then to the base of a white crystal dike. 4th class, 30m.
Pitch #7: Climb the White Crystal Groove either going through Joe's 5.10 mantle variation straight up or start down & right and go to a two bolt belay. 5.7, 30m.
Pitch #8: Climb past 3 bolts (1st may be hard to spot) up a rib to a belay at two-bolts. At the belay is a plaque in memory of our mutual friend, Swiss Mountain Guide Res von Känel, who died in the Alps during the same time while Tim was doing the FA. Royal Flush is similar to many long "Plaisir" climbs in Switzerland. 5.7, 30m.
Pitch #9: Third class (exposed) up and then mostly 2nd class left traversing past 2 small, grungier buttresses. Follow cairns/faint trail, 60+ m.
Pitch #10: The White Rib Pitch. Joe's Cracks are nice offerings to the left (5.6) or pass 3 bolts on a slabby pillar (5.7) and belay near a snag. 30m.
Pitch #11: Go straight up (5.10) or out right up the Grey Beard Slab past a roof and more slab to a two-bolt belay. 5.6, 30m.
Pitch #12: Follow cairns up scree to the base of the apron of the Headwall. 3rd class, ~150m. Look for the bolt line just to the right of a large pine at the base of the Apron.
Pitch #13: Climb a classic pitch up a white streak with memorable holds past 1 pin & 5 bolts. 5.7, 30m.
Pitch #14: Continue past 3 more bolts & cross the gully at the top of the Apron moving left of the prominent cleft dihedral system of Mount Royal to the "Headwall" past 2 bolts to one of 2 two bolt belays. Use the left anchor for the 5.9 version of P15. This anchor is hidden until you walk to the left on a 1 foot ledge system. 5.7, 20m.
Pitch #15: Continue straight up (5.10) from right anchor or from the left anchor to a tricky 5.9 system of steep grooves. These merge after 5 bolts. Interesting moves to a two-bolt belay. 5.9, ~18m.
Pitch #16: Continue up some in-cut, black-colored plaques passing through a fun Gunks-like roof and belay at Yosemite Ledge with a two bolt belay. 5.8, ~18m.
Pitch #17: Climb up to the Grey Shelf past a few bolts. Some small Camalots may be useful here. 5.8, ~18m.
Pitch #18: Climb through some blocky roofs with funky rock past a ledge and a two-bolt belay near a tree. A wall register is found here...spray away. 5.8, ~18m.
Pitch #19: Follow up a coarse, dirt-filled gully slinging pine trees for protection. Beware of some loose rock. Two bolt belay. Exposed 3rd class, 30m.
Pitch #20: Surmount loose blocks to the summit and a sign that asks hikers not to throw rocks due to climbers below. 3rd class, 10m.
Though descent via rappel is always an option if inclement weather strikes, from the top, walking off to the south on a great trail which drops down to the town of Frisco is best. Stay south, going down a bit, and then back up a hill for a total of 1/4 mile until turning left and walking downhill. If you're not on a major trail, you probably tried to head downhill too early. 30-45 minutes.
Protection10 QDs and 4-6 shoulder runners and perhaps a small rack of assorted cams if this is pushing your grade (most people won't need extra pro). All belays are bolted and all cruxes are well protected which deems a light rack adequate for protecting this climb.
If you link P1-3, P4-5, P7-8, P10-11, P13-14, P15-16, P17-18, P19-20, bring at least 13 QDs.