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Routes in Castle Rock - Southwest Face

Ball and Chain S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cryptology S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Great Steps of Cheops, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sphynx, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Turret, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Old School
Page Views: 1,709 total · 20/month
Shared By: C Miller on Aug 22, 2011
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start up the obvious thin/hand crack just left of Ball and Chain or climb a low-angled ramp to reach a 4" crack about ten feet to the left and then continue up the heavily featured face above to anchors.

Aside from the start this is really a face climb with gear for protecton (as well as the odd slung knob) which might not make it the best for those breaking into the grade but for everyone else it's just a blast on excellent quality rock.

Location

Protection

Gear to 4", bolted anchor/rap

Photos

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Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.6
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.6
Years ago I arrived at the top of this climb only to be told by the SB SAR people that I couldn't clip the anchors because they were going to use them ! My response was rather rapid "oh yes I am, watch me". Apr 2, 2013
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
Stemming across the wide crack and then pulling on giant jugs through a small overhang make for an exhilarating finish to this route. Feels at least 5.7 with great exposure. Jun 23, 2014

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