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Routes in Castle Rock - Southwest Face

Ball and Chain S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cryptology S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Great Steps of Cheops, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sphynx, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Turret, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Craig Britton & Chris Miller, September 2011
Page Views: 1,043 total · 13/month
Shared By: C Miller on Sep 10, 2011
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Make sure your belayer is anchored (a large block at the base can be slung for an anchor) then stem across the chasm to reach the first bolt. Fun climbing up plated face leads to the midway point where the rock changes character and becomes less featured to a crux at the 5th bolt. Higher make a delicate traverse left to gain a good horizontal and progressively larger holds to the top.

The climbing on this route is very reminiscent of Joshua Tree with it's delicate friction moves and tricky sequences and is perhaps best done in cooler weather or the shade.

  • Please note the 4th bolt is positioned to best protect the moves ahead so it's a little higher than one would normally like but is easily reached with a power-clip - make a move up to clip the bolt then come back down to the better holds just below. Taller climbers may find no such issue.


Far left side of the SW face, just left of The Great Steps of Cheops. The route is best approached by hiking up-slope parallel to the wall until able to traverse right on ledges to the base.


6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor (all 3/8")


Wow, this is a great climb! How did this gem of a climb not get established earlier? The climb follows a discontinuous left leaning crack system which provides fantastic crimps, with good, somewhat sloping feet reminiscent of Josh as the description states.

Highly recommended! If this were longer it'd be an area classic up there with Knightline. Jul 13, 2014

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