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Routes in Castle Rock - Southwest Face

Ball and Chain S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cryptology S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Great Steps of Cheops, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sphynx, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Turret, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Old School
Page Views: 1,844 total, 21/month
Shared By: Dave Daly on Aug 9, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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One of the better 5.8's in the SB's! Great features throughout this route and plenty of pro along the way. A great warm-up to the harder moderates on the crag. 3-stars for sure!


This route starts on the left side of the south face of Castle Rock, on the western side (left) of an obvious detached block of rock (The Turret...duh!). Climb up to the obvious crack and follow it up and right to a set of anchors (wired shuts) on an overhanging block. Lower off (80')


Pro to 4", bolted anchors
Laura Lemire  
This was a great 5-8 lead. The pro is all there. The transition at the start of the climb is a bit dicey. If you feel 5-8 is your limit, take your time and climb smart at the beginning because it is a pretty good drop from the first piece of pro and the crux is technical. The first 20 feet is indeed the crux, sustained. Compared to a Tahquitz 5-8, it was definitely harder. The anchors underneath the boulder make setting anchor awkward. I would recommend heading left and setting up on the anchor for Ball and Chain. Aug 18, 2015
Adam Lawrence
Monterey, CA
Adam Lawrence   Monterey, CA
First move is like whoa...then it's like oh ok...then you are like ahhhh...but then the last clip at the anchors is like whoa. Good route. Oct 29, 2012
C Miller
C Miller   CA  
Somewhat technical jamming and jug pulling for the first 20' are the crux after which it eases off considerably. Near the top the better finish is to head left and join Ball and Chain to topout. Aug 22, 2011
Russ Walling
Russ Walling
Good route on very featured rock. Plenty of pro available just about anywhere. Jul 10, 2011
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
A very good climb, steep and intimidating but with good pro and good rest opportunities. Highly recommended. May 15, 2011