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Routes in Castle Rock - Southwest Face

Ball and Chain S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cryptology S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Great Steps of Cheops, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sphynx, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Turret, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: (TR) Unknown, FL: Gary Henning & Brent Webster, 1997
Page Views: 2,722 total, 21/month
Shared By: Isaac T. on Mar 19, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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35 Opinions

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Description

This climb is a definite must. If you come here climb this one at least once! Ball & Chain makes for a good warmup, it will definitly get your blood flowing especially at the hairy moves at the last bolt! Other people have rated this climb a 10a although I am not so sure, it was a little hairy but not hairy enough to give a .10a.

Location

Located on the westerly facing wall. Kind of follows the bolts up the arete.

Protection

7 bolts, ring anchors at the top
Chris Norwood
San Diego, CA
  5.10a
Chris Norwood   San Diego, CA
  5.10a
I agree with the previous statements: if you stick to the thinner face both at the first bolt and the last 2 bolts and avoid going left, it definitely seems 10a, but otherwise 5.9 or easier. Kind of contrived, but a decent route if you're in the area. Jul 25, 2012
C Miller
CA
  5.9
C Miller   CA  
  5.9
As noted this is a 5.10a if you climb directly over the first bolt and ignore the obvious huge holds just to the left. Higher amazingly featured rock leads to another contrived crux which if climbed directly over the bolt goes at 5.9 or a little harder.

About 10' to the right is a TR variation start (5.10) which starts in a thin lieback and heads over a small roof/overlap to jugs and then joins the route at the 3rd bolt. This variation has much better movement and a fun series of moves leading into the route proper. Aug 22, 2011
Mary Moser
Joshua Tree, CA
Mary Moser   Joshua Tree, CA
The anchors at the top of Ball and Chain looked a bit suspect. Perhaps a wrench would tighten things down. Aug 7, 2011
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
 
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
 
I don't know about all the "hairy" on this one.... It's a fairly straightforward contrived squeeze job that you can make anywhere between 5.6+ and 5.10. Do the bouldery start by staying right of the first bolt, or use the 5.4 jugs 2 feet to the left to pass the opening difficulties. Up high at the top I tried to stay to the right to avoid the outright jugs of the Sphinx and ended up on the Turret. So I moved left 2ft, and did some fairly hard moves (5.10?) past the bolt, being sure not to use the huge footholds that are on the Sphinx. Fun and all, but to tick this route at the posted grade and description will take some hold eliminating discipline. Jul 10, 2011
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.9
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.9
Crux is getting past the last bolt, where I stepped left () and climbed up just right of a crack, guidebook says runout but that's, only if you don't place an extended 1" or less cam at the top of the crack before committing to the flakes above. May 15, 2011