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Areas in Castle Rock

Castle Rock - Black Tower Buttress 3 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Castle Rock - East Face 5 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Castle Rock - North Face 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Castle Rock - South Face 3 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Castle Rock - Southeast Face 7 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Castle Rock - Southwest Face 3 / 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5

Description

An amazing crag, with superb quality granite located on top of a rather steep hill with jaw dropping views of the mountains and Big Bear Lake. It is a rather secluded area although during the summer due to its high elevation and relatively shady setting the area can attract quite a few climbers. Due to its high elevation it can get a bit breezy and chilly in the late afternoon.

Getting There

This area can be a little tricky to find as it is marked by a rather small trail sign and the parking area is down the road a bit from the trail. But it is off HWY 18 about 1 mile from the dam. If you are coming from Running springs at the dam you would turn right across the dam and drive for about 2 miles the trail is on your right. The parking area is about 200 feet further on HWY 18 on your Left. The trail is a surprisingly steep lung buster, the trail is in good condition though and as you get higher the views get even more amazing. Near the top the trail can get a little hard to find but just follow the footprints in a generally south east direction and you will see the crag. The trail is about a mile, and up until April or even May you can be walking through snow to get to Castle Rock, so dress accordingly.

29 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Castle Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 11
Chainmail
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 26
The Sphynx
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 34
Black Tower Crack
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 3
Taj
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 24
Crossbow
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 28
The Turret
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 10
The Great Steps of Cheops
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
The Drawbridge
TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 33
Ball and Chain
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 39
Knightline
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Headwall Center
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 12
Cryptology
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 11
Castle Crack
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 3
Grappling Hooks
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 11
The Roofs
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Chainmail Castle Rock - Southea…
 11
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
The Sphynx Castle Rock - Southwe…
 26
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Black Tower Crack Castle Rock - E Face
 34
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Taj Castle Rock - Southea…
 3
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Crossbow Castle Rock - Southea…
 24
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
The Turret Castle Rock - Southwe…
 28
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
The Great Steps of Cheops Castle Rock - Southwe…
 10
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
The Drawbridge Castle Rock - Southea…
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
Ball and Chain Castle Rock - Southwe…
 33
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Knightline Castle Rock - Southea…
 39
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
Headwall Center Castle Rock - Black T…
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Cryptology Castle Rock - Southwe…
 12
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Castle Crack Castle Rock - S Face
 11
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Grappling Hooks Castle Rock - S Face
 3
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
The Roofs Castle Rock - S Face
 11
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Castle Rock »

Weather Averages

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Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
On the main trail, when you get to the split-log benches, be sure to go right. This is the main trail, but can escape notice since it goes steep on the rock outcropping there. Aug 28, 2013
spencerstewart Stewart
Big Bear Lake, CA
spencerstewart Stewart   Big Bear Lake, CA

Had a lot of fun slipping into the crevices and cleaning all the trash out. There was some old stuff in there, including a few camera lens covers, haha. Keep it clean! Oct 28, 2014
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
Good job! In spring of 2015 my kids and I remove 56 plastic water bottles from the same place - some of them still had water in them, bloody ridiculous! I wrote to city hall to ask them to post a sign at the trailhead, with no reply. Oct 12, 2015

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