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Routes in Amphitheater Wall

? S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Best Jams in Wisconsin T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Clinical Procedure T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whitney's Chimney T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Old School
Page Views: 1,081 total, 14/month
Shared By: Tradiban on Aug 4, 2011
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

This was formerly known as the "Off-width of Death", but upon actually climbing it there's good pro all the way and FUN chimney climbing at the top with a jug top out that goes at 5.9.

Follow the nice crack left of Best Jams to a pod in the Chimney with a no hands rest. Plug bomber gear and thrash to the apex of the roof and plug a #5 C4 to protect the top out.

Location

Crack left of Best Jams.

Protection

Finger and hand sized. Save a #5 C4 for the very top. TR is east to set off some trees.
Tradiban  
 
Feel free to massacre any birds in the way of your climbing. May 26, 2016
Andy P.
Wisconsin
Andy P.   Wisconsin
A bird's nest, fully stocked with eggs and all has taken up a key hold (i.e. pretty much the only real "hold") in the chimney and I was unable to finish the route... must get stronger... or more masochistic.

Also, one can scramble to the top rope set up on this one, but it requires a V0 downclimb from the summit of castle rock, definitely the very edge of my comfort limit unprotected. May 15, 2016
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.9
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.9
Bottom of the route is OK but is full of spider webs and nasty looking spiders. I cursed Rhoads the whole way up! Once I got into the chimney the fun really began and that's the Type 2 sort of fun. Classic route. Bring a #5 for sure though. Sep 1, 2011