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Routes in Amphitheater Wall

? S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Best Jams in Wisconsin T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Clinical Procedure T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whitney's Chimney T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: (potentially) Gokul Gopal and members of the Outdoor Adventure Club from Platteville
Page Views: 116 total, 3/month
Shared By: Gokul on Mar 12, 2015
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

P1 (5.5, 45'): Climb the hand crack that goes up two feet right of the arete, to a ledge with a big tree. You can walk off left from here, if desired.

P2 (5.8+, 75'): Move the belay back on the ledge system to the base of a slabby block. Go up the slab to a tight dihedral. The crux is near the top of the dihedral. Top out onto the ledge system above, traverse right along the wall for a few feet then lie-back up a sandy crack (about 3 feet left of a tree that stands close to the wall) choked by a chunk of shrubbery (the "shrubbery" might just be a stunted pine - I can't remember).

Descent: Walk (or rap from a tree) off from the summit.

Location

This is at the very north (i.e., left) end of the Amphitheater Wall, just around the corner from the Incredible Hulk area.

Protection

Standard rack up to about 3"

Photos

Devon Hummer
Burlington, WI
  5.10-
Devon Hummer   Burlington, WI
  5.10-
This first pitch of this route which has a very sustained crack looks appealing so we rappelled and cleaned it some, Jenna had lead it and upon following I broke off two hand holds. It was not wet and did not rain within the last week so it was perfectly safe to climb. The first pitch is less desirable however the second pitch is certainly where it gets good. 5.8 leaders be ready for some fun, difficult climbing. I would suggest skipping the first pitch and just climbing the second. May 14, 2017
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
Didn't know this thing existed, I'll hop on it next time I'm there. Apr 28, 2017
Gokul

 
Gokul    
 
I led this route in two pitches today, during a trad clinic (with a group of 5). I don't know if it has been climbed before. Judging by the amount of sand and moss on the route, I think probably not.

I'm also not very sure of the grade I gave it. It was very sandy in spots, and I climbed in approach boots, making it hard for me to judge technical difficulty. I had no good feet on the crux move in the dihedral, and had to campus to get a high foot. So it might be harder than 8, or it might just be that my footwear/technique was lacking. The range of grades suggested by the group spanned 5.8 to 10- for that move.

Please post here if you know anything about possible previous ascents of this route. Mar 13, 2015