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Areas in The Fishin' Crag (Castle Rock South)

Amphitheater Wall 3 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Bertha's Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Bigfoot Pillar 0 / 0 / 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
North Wall 4 / 3 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Rusty Ring Wall 1 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
South Faces 2 / 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Wall Right of Rusty Ring Wall 0 / 4 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
White Trash Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Elevation: 790 ft
GPS: 43.046, -90.522 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 25,334 total · 182/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Sep 16, 2006
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

Description

The Fishin' Crag is a quaint little area with a crystal clear trout stream running along side it. There are a couple dozen sport lines of varying quality, and a handful of good trad climbs. Most of the original routes were established in the mid nineties when "manufacturing" was not uncommon, though some modern routes have been added in recent years. Like many of the satellite crags this is a great place to find a project if you can, or it can be a nice getaway from the usual Wisconsin scene a few times a year.

The rock is very similar to that of the Qual Wall at Governor Dodge. Awesome in some spots and total sugar in others. As always with this type of stone, give it at least a day after rain to dry

Like the stream below it, over time The Fishin' Crag has carved out a little niche for itself in the history books of Wisconsin Climbing. The gentle vibe is only complimented by a sort of ancient temple feel that's hard to describe. Unique to say the least.
No longer private property. See below. Details

Getting There


Castle rock south is located roughly equidistant and south of the towns of Boscobel and Muscoda on hwy. Q. It is marked in the gazetteer.

38 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Fishin' Crag (Castle Rock South)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Buddha Bukstein Crack
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Runnin' With Bigfoot
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Whitney's Chimney
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Best Jams in Wisconsin
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
An Eye For an Eye
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bucky's Paradise (formerly "Unknown f…
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rusted Ring Right
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Awsome Arete
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Kingdom Come
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Choss to Treasure
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Remedy
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Rainday
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Arete Action
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Incredible Hulk
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Buddha Bukstein Crack N Wall 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Runnin' With Bigfoot Bigfoot Pillar 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
Whitney's Chimney Amphitheater Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Best Jams in Wisconsin Amphitheater Wall 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
An Eye For an Eye N Wall 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Bucky's Paradise (formerly… N Wall 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Rusted Ring Right Rusty Ring Wall 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Awsome Arete S Faces 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Kingdom Come Rusty Ring Wall 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Choss to Treasure S Faces 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Remedy N Wall 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Rainday S Faces 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Arete Action Rusty Ring Wall 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Incredible Hulk Wall Right of Rusty Ring Wall 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Fishin' Crag (Castle Rock South) »

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Zander Esh
Madison, WI
Zander Esh   Madison, WI
Alex Zucca, that campground is owned by the farm on the hill behind it. If you drive up their driveway and they're there, it costs $5 per night. I think there's information on how to get to the farm on the sign on the gate into the campground. Apr 20, 2017
That's just an empty field Bro. Looking for a place to crash? Aug 4, 2016
Alex Zucca
University Heights
Alex Zucca   University Heights
Does anyone know anything about "Jerome's Campsite @ Castle Rock" that shows up on Google Maps right by the bridge? Aug 4, 2016
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
I walked through once after the vandalism, and that's what it looked like to me, Nick. But I don't know this rock very well, myself.

I also tried to contact the regional DNR office about this, but got zero response. Apr 4, 2016
Sounds like damage was "near" routes but not actually to them. Yes? Apr 4, 2016
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
Nick, I think pdk documented it pretty thoroughly. Apr 4, 2016
Fuzzy. Try the forums.

Just noticed the vandalism. Any routes affected? Apr 3, 2016
Fuzzy Climber
Tucson, Arizona
Fuzzy Climber   Tucson, Arizona
Anyone climbing here next weekend? I live in Tucson, AZ but will be in Boscobel April 6th-12th. I can pack my shoes and harness. Apr 2, 2016
jon jugenheimer
Madison, WI
jon jugenheimer   Madison, WI  
Joel, the rock isn't quite as good as Necedah, but bring your rack! There is a really sweet 5.9 crack there that you have to get on! Its "the best jams in Wisconsin" Nov 3, 2015
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
I haven't been here yet, how is the rock quality? Similar to Necedah? Wondering if its worth bringing the trad rack. Nov 3, 2015
Josh Knapp
East Troy, Wisconsin
Josh Knapp   East Troy, Wisconsin
I found a pair of climbing shoes and a chalk bag at the base of the rusty ring wall. Let me know if you're missing these items and I can return them to you.

Josh Oct 11, 2015
pdk
Janesville, WI
pdk   Janesville, WI

Vandal identified as Alan Pyfferoen, drives a Chevrolet CZT with plate: WI 663-RXX. BOLO! More tree and rock damage near rusty bolts wall. Oct 5, 2014
pdk
Janesville, WI
pdk   Janesville, WI
Vandal identified as Alan Pyfferoen, drives a Chevrolet CZT with plate: WI 663-RXX. BOLO! Large boulders dismantled near rusty bolts wall and south. Note damaged trees.
Oct 5, 2014
pdk
Janesville, WI
pdk   Janesville, WI
Vandal identified as Alan Pyfferoen, drives a Chevrolet CZT with plate: WI 663-RXX. BOLO! Large flake broken from first approach left of route Eye for an Eye.
Oct 5, 2014
pdk
Janesville, WI
pdk   Janesville, WI

Trees broken off from large rocks broken away near north entrance to crag from bridge trail. Vandal identified as Alan Pyfferoen, drives a Chevrolet CZT with plate: WI 663-RXX. BOLO! Oct 5, 2014
pdk
Janesville, WI
pdk   Janesville, WI
BE ON THE LOOKOUT: WE CONFRONTED 5 MALES VANDALIZING THE ROCK ON 09/28/14. They kicked off a large flake at very north approach. Large boulders were also dismantled near the rusted bolt wall and right of this wall. They drove away in vehicle with plate WI 663 RXX. We reported them to Grant Co. Sheriff Dept. and the DNR. I will post some pics. SO SAD AND IRRATE. PLEASE HELP US CATCH THESE VANDALS. Oct 3, 2014
Dobbe  
For the record I saw some big pieces of sandstone slightly east of here in between Shemak and Biba Rd. g.co/maps/6ykhe

Also some SE of here off of Snowbottom Rd. g.co/maps/xs33f
I inspected this one briefly but nothing jumped out at me.

Both sites are most likely private land but it never hurts to ask! Dec 8, 2011
Josh Olson
Durango, CO
Josh Olson   Durango, CO
I climbed there about a month ago no incident, my partner for the day says they have climbed there a couple of times with no incident. That doesn't mean low profile isn't the way to go. DNR doesn't like climbing. ( gibralter, rib mountain ) Jul 29, 2011
AnjayB  
What ever came of this? Jul 25, 2011
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
That's great news about the land ownership. Such a cool little place.
There is also a very long band of steep looking stone not too far to the west of here. Probably just bouldering, but maybe worth looking for. Jul 1, 2011
Very good! Now I wonder about all that other rock I see from the top! May 19, 2011
FYI i talked to the owner today. the land belongs to the DNR. i confirmed this online its listed on the map. routes could use cleaning! May 19, 2011
ChrisFrayer
Platteville, Wi
ChrisFrayer   Platteville, Wi
This place is a gem! Easy to find and some very fun climbing. Even better than the Qual wall. Oct 16, 2010
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
maps.google.com/maps?f=d&so…

That is exactly where it is. Just off the highway to the south of the marker. Jun 18, 2010
This area deserves more attention. Where the Platteville people at? It's not too far for you guys. Some more traffic would make these good lines more appealing. Even though the lines I did the other day probably get climbed only a few times a year I didn't find them too dirty and the bolts are all still looking good.

As Remo would say "GIT ON IT!"

Doesn't seem to be private land, there are zero "No Trespassing" signs and there were people walking around the thing all day long. Jun 18, 2010
This area can be a bit tricky to find. Park east of the first bridge you come to on Hwy Q (If coming from the east). Further west there is another bridge with a small parking area and a kiosk with a picture of "Castle Rock" with no rock in sight! Feb 15, 2010
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
Hey John,

If you find yourself living in Wisconsin, I agree with you that you should find every chunk of good rock to be had, do the routes, that you can, and learn from the ones you can't.

I suppose the fishin crag is a bit remote for some. Uh, hmmmm... I remember a time in Wisconsin where if there was new climbing (or old new climbing) that we went off in search of it with a freakin fervor. Especially if we had directions to the place!

Just thought I would put that in. The fishin crag has something for everyone, unless you are just to damned strong to be bothered with such nonsense.

I do hope that all of you that find it tantalizing will make the push and get down there. You have nothing to lose but a couple of days right? Of course, fall is wonderfull.

JJ Jul 16, 2008
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
I am still trying to get my buddy to go out there with me. He just sees it as another small sandstone crag, why drive so far he says..... I say because I want to check out all the rock in WI and there could be new lines to do. I think I will just get my fiance to go with me. She just started climbing and is just fine for a belay partner. Hopefully I will get out there soon. Jul 15, 2008
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
Wow! That would be awesome if this chunk of stone was officially on public land... Anyway to verify that Travis? Any new routes? May 16, 2008
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
Thx for the info Travis. Looks like I'll be going sooner than later. May 12, 2008
TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
I spoke with the farmer my first time out there and asked him who owned the bluff. He indicated to me that it was not private land anymore, but was public/city etc property. In the past we have parked on either side of the bridge below the crag and just walked right uphill to it. Several other cars were parked in the same area (for the fishing) and no one seemed to have a problem with it. Still, is a good idea to stay as low key as possible..... May 9, 2008
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
For a bit more beta on how to get there, the crag is 8 miles Northeast of Fennimore, WI on HWY Q. Me and my buddy might try to make a trip out there this season to clean and climb. Any new routes will be listed.

Jeremy,

Any advice on getting to the crag without being seen? Does the farmer own the property the crag is on?? May 9, 2008
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
Hopefully there are a few souls out there with accurate info on some of the other lines here. If, for nothing else, history's sake. Sep 16, 2006

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