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Routes in Amphitheater Wall

Best Jams in Wisconsin T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Clinical Procedure T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
In Your Face S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Whitney's Chimney T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Most likely Ralph Schmidt
Page Views: 478 total · 4/month
Shared By: TravisMelin on Aug 4, 2007
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Crux at the top after the large jug. May be a scary lead going between bolt 1 and 2.

Location

Right end of the amphitheater.

Protection

5 bolts to chain anchor

Photos

Jordan Wood  
 
This contrived squeeze job really detracts from the crack next to it. If the second and third bolts were several feet to the right, it might climb as it's own line. Sep 26, 2015
Burton Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burton Lindquist   Madison, WI  
I don't believe this route is contrived but it certainly hugs close to the crack route in the middle section between bolts 2 and 4. The climb would be legions harder if the climber attempts to climb the blank like face right of bolts 2-4. There is no feet over there and only a very desperate series of under-clings for the right hand. Jun 15, 2017
Does anyone know the line the bolter intended for this route? I assume the climb to the right of bolt 4 and then straight up to bolt 5? I couldn't figure that beta out this weekend and was wondering if that is the line people are saying it 11+. Thank you. Aug 21, 2017
D, bolter is unknown but screams Ralph Schmidt to me. I don't recall coming to a conclusion about how this is supposed to climb. Could be broken holds. Aug 21, 2017
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
  5.11+
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
  5.11+
I put a name on this one because you can't search for "?". If anyone has a better idea post it up.

Tread lightly before clipping bolt #2.

We thought this route was pretty fun. Neither Jake nor I got it first try - the top has some thin tough moves. Aug 20, 2018

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