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Routes in Gateway Rock

A Little More Hoof S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Drive By Shooting S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flake Out S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Forest S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Garden Wall T,S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
General Mayhem S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Green Thumb S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Major Distraction S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Portal S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Road Rage S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Woof Toof Noof Roof S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 48 ft
FA: Sarah Brion
Page Views: 297 total, 4/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Jul 31, 2011
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Starting in the corner between Drive By Shooting and Garden Wall, follow generous holds up a the shallow dihedral though some small plants to the anchor in a bulge.
Fun climbing and appropriate for the area. Like neighboring routes, the hardest move is getting off the ground due to the undercut start. Easier than Green Thumb though.

Location

Between Drive By Shooting and Garden Wall.

Protection

Five bolts to a beefy steel, locking lowering biner anchor.

Photos

Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
 
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
 
I swapped out all the hangers and the anchor on this route today with painted/colored hardware since this route is in such a high, non-climber-traffic area and the shiny anchors were easily visible from the highway.
When I tried to remove the hanger on the first bolt, the bolt spun in the hole and had a lot of play in the hole. Since it was in a non-optimal spot anyway (a dished area that made it difficult to clip), I placed a new bolt/hanger to the right. I was able to pry the original wedge bolt/hanger out of the hole without too much effort. Perhaps the hole wasn't cleaned out well before the bolt was placed.

The route also initially had two big, beefy anchor setups, with one four feet above the other. I took down the upper one because it seemed unnecessary. Nov 26, 2011