Type: Trad, Sport, TR, 65 ft (20 m)
FA: Bolted in 2006. Prior to that it had been soloed, TRed and gear lead by loads of people
Page Views: 3,757 total · 22/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Aug 30, 2006
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: COVID-19 New Mexico State Requirements Details

Description

A fun and long (for Las Conchas) climb on the heavily featured and somewhat vegetated wall just left of Drive By Shooting. The crux, like many of the climbs at Las Conchas, is getting off the ground. One can meander all around this wall with its many features.

For a long time this wall was top-roped off the tree at the top. Anchors and a route up this wall were bolted in late 2006.

Lines can be and have been led on this wall using gear but no one line was ever identified and the gear was funky in flaring pockets of fairly crumbly rock. For those reasons I picked one of the more natural lines on the wall and established this bolt-protected line. Gear-protected climbing can still be done on either side of this bolted line and still make use of the bolted anchor.

Location

Shown as route #4 on route topo photo for Las Conchas Gateway Rock.

Start the route 20 feet left of "Drive By Shooting" on Entrance Rock. A good walk off or walk up to set the top rope can be done by going towards the highway on the trail for about 50 yards and following an obvious trail up.

Protection

8 bolts to a two-bolt anchor without chains just over the lip. You'll want a couple of single-length slings and biners for the anchor to minimize rope drag.

To clean, don't run your rope directly through the hangers--walk around to the top at the end of the day and retrieve your anchors slings.

Photos