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Routes in (B) Gateway Rock
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A Little More Hoof S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Drive By Shooting S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Flake Out S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Forrest S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Garden Wall T,S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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General Mayhem S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Green Thumb S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Major Distraction S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Portal S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Road Rage S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Woof Toof Noof Roof S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
| Type: | Trad, Sport, TR, 65 ft (20 m) |
| GPS: | 35.816, -106.533 |
| FA: | Bolted in 2006. Prior to that it had been soloed, TRed and gear lead by loads of people |
| Page Views: | 5,436 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Jason Halladay on Aug 30, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
Description
A fun and long (for Las Conchas) climb on the heavily featured and somewhat vegetated wall just left of Drive By Shooting. The crux, like many of the climbs at Las Conchas, is getting off the ground. One can meander all around this wall with its many features.
For a long time this wall was top-roped off the tree at the top. Anchors and a route up this wall were bolted in late 2006.
Lines can be and have been led on this wall using gear but no one line was ever identified and the gear was funky in flaring pockets of fairly crumbly rock. For those reasons I picked one of the more natural lines on the wall and established this bolt-protected line. Gear-protected climbing can still be done on either side of this bolted line and still make use of the bolted anchor.
Location
Shown as route #4 on route topo photo for Las Conchas Gateway Rock.
Start the route 20 feet left of "Drive By Shooting" on Entrance Rock. A good walk off or walk up to set the top rope can be done by going towards the highway on the trail for about 50 yards and following an obvious trail up.
Protection
8 bolts to a two-bolt anchor just over the lip with chains and steel lowering carabiners. The chains extend over the lip, but bring slings to clip directly into the bolt hangers for a tr/lead anchor.
Please only use the lowering hardware for the last climber to get down. Use the bolts/chains and your own gear to lower off until you are done climbing the route for the day. Thank you!
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