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Routes in Gateway Rock

A Little More Hoof S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Drive By Shooting S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flake Out S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Forest S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Garden Wall T,S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
General Mayhem S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Green Thumb S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Major Distraction S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Portal S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Road Rage S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Woof Toof Noof Roof S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, Sport, TR, 65 ft
FA: Bolted in 2006. Prior to that it had been soloed, TRed and gear lead by loads of people
Page Views: 2,579 total · 18/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Aug 30, 2006
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


67 Opinions

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Description

A fun and long (for Las Conchas) climb on the heavily featured and somewhat vegetated wall just left of Drive By Shooting. The crux, like many of the climbs at Las Conchas, is getting off the ground. One can meander all around this wall with its many features.

For a long time this wall was top-roped off the tree at the top. Anchors and a route up this wall were bolted in late 2006.

Lines can be and have been led on this wall using gear but no one line was ever identified and the gear was funky in flaring pockets of fairly crumbly rock. For those reasons I picked one of the more natural lines on the wall and established this bolt-protected line. Gear-protected climbing can still be done on either side of this bolted line and still make use of the bolted anchor.

Location

Shown as route #4 on route topo photo for Las Conchas Gateway Rock.

Start the route 20 feet left of "Drive By Shooting" on Entrance Rock. A good walk off or walk up to set the top rope can be done by going towards the highway on the trail for about 50 yards and following an obvious trail up.

Protection

8 bolts to a two-bolt anchor without chains just over the lip. You'll want a couple of single-length slings and biners for the anchor to minimize rope drag.

To clean, don't run your rope directly through the hangers--walk around to the top at the end of the day and retrieve your anchors slings.

Photos

Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
 
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
 
Definitely a fun route--nice and long and a great beginner lead. Jun 14, 2007
Devin Shunk
  5.6
Devin Shunk  
  5.6
Good beginner sport lead. Sep 19, 2007
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
 
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
 
Also makes for an interesting lead on natural gear. In general, I would say the quality of the protection is less than ideal though, so keep that in mind. I was able to get about three bomber pieces and another three or four less than ideal placements while staying pretty much in line with the bolts. I'm sure more exist - tricams would've come in handy for some of the horizontal placements. This is something I've wanted to do for a while, just because I knew it'd go, but I can't say I'll do it again. Apr 10, 2009
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
 
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
 
That's sort of a gray area in my opinion, Marc. And I don't think it speaks to the ethic of the day at all. My feeling on this was it's an entire wall and never was one route really identified as "the route" so yes, I took it upon myself to pick what looked like the best line (no doubt climbed before) and bolt protect it. I did ask around to see if I could identify an FA but that was not fruitful because of the vagueness of the actual route and fact that it had probably been soloed by high school kids in tennis shoes in the way back.

Other contributing factors to placing the bolts are how poor the rock is for natural protection and the fact that people were always tying off from that tree at the top for TRing.

I do agree it's nice that it does take off some pressure from nearby routes and Cattle Call Wall. It also seems extremely popular as a bolt-protected route. Sure I may not have been "right" to bolt a line there but based on the popularity of the line, I don't regret doing so.

Regarding Forest, it does have FAs identified (Cam Burns, Mike Schillaci) and I'm sure they'd have an opinion on the idea of retroing it. Sep 10, 2009
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
 
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
 
I'm reminded of a "entertaining" event there once. We were climbing Drive By Shooting when this group of middle school-aged kids walked by and one started saying, "look y'all, those climbers need ropes to climb that stuff but look at it, it's easy. I don't need a rope, watch this..." and the kid headed up the Garden Wall while being egged on by his friends, "yeah, man, show 'em how it's done!" The kid got higher and higher and was definitely well above the point of no return (no easy downclimbing and closer to the top). He paused and looked around with a look of nervousness on his face that was equal to or greater than the looks of nervousness on our faces. He committed to the finish and topped out unscathed.
While his friends cheered him on, I'm pretty sure he was thinking he wouldn't do that again. Sep 10, 2009
ian watson
Albuquerque, NM
  5.7
ian watson   Albuquerque, NM
  5.7
This route seemed harder then 5.6 to me i climbed off to the right of the bolt line though, and i suck at side-pulls.This route was good for telling me what i need to work on. Oct 18, 2010
Andrew B. Ellis
Ruidoso, NM
  5.7+
Andrew B. Ellis   Ruidoso, NM
  5.7+
I also thought this route is harder than 5.6, maybe more like 5.7+, especially with the start and finish, might just be the myriad of vegetation taking up all of the good holds :p

We were entertained this weekend watching a not so focused 4 year old doing gardening on the route while she top-roped it (with some vertical assistance from her dad pulling belayer duty) Sep 5, 2017
Robin
Albuquerque, NM
  5.6
Robin   Albuquerque, NM
  5.6
Honestly I'm a bit disappointed that this route was bolted. Generally NM has a great mix of sport and trad with trad routes being left unbolted at sport crags. I understand the gear was a bit tricky but it was there. I agree that anchor bolts were warranted since many people used the tree, while I used 40 feet of webbing to make a TR anchor on a giant boulder. I also agree that it makes a great addition to the easy route options at the crag. I also agree that it makes a good beginner sport lead now, and that is something that tends be lacking from sport crags.

So in the big picture I agree it makes it better for general use, I hope this doesn't set a precedent that we are going to go bolt trad routes simply because they aren't the best and exist at a sport crag.

Happy climbing. 7 days ago

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