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Routes in Warm Up Wall

Black Rainbow S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Coin Operated Space Cruiser S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Lame-O S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Princess, I Wanna Lay-Ya. S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Skywalker S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Jamie Coin
Page Views: 347 total, 4/month
Shared By: BBQ on Jul 29, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


43 Opinions

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Description

Another superlative 5.9+ that is probably better than The Pakastani Route and most other 5.9+ climbs in this or any other solar system.

This route tends to get ignored because it's one step to the right of it's counterpart, Princess, I Wanna Leaha, and most folks are fairly warmed up and ready to move after that sending that route.

However, if you are a beginning climber who is catching your stride and getting good at 5.9's and 5.10's this is a route that you will not want to miss out on.

Starts in a crack and only gets better after that. A touch more featured and varied than Princess, Skywalker will take you to new heights with smaller holds, laybacks, sidepulls and jugs with reachy placements that will have you straining like Luke did when he was in the Death Star's second floor bathroom. I betcha missed that scene didn't ya?

Again, just keep climbing! The holds are all there and they only keep getting better! Keep searching reaching for that next hold! If you onsight this climb be sure to get onto the shorter climb just down the hill from Skywalker called "Erectile Dysfunction", which is something I'm sure Luke got when he found out he had been making out with his sister.

Location

On top of the pedastal and farthest to the right. Start in the crack and layback that sucker!

Protection

9 bolts and open shut anchors. Stick clipping might be a good idea but it's not as imperative on this climb when compared to the princess route.

Photos

slim

  5.9+
slim    
  5.9+
good warmup, although start is kind of in your face. can be seepy during wet weather. Jun 15, 2015