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Routes in Warm Up Wall

Black Rainbow S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Coin Operated Space Cruiser S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Lame-O S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Princess, I Wanna Lay-Ya. S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Skywalker S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 116 total, 4/month
Shared By: BBQ on Oct 2, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

Yet another impossibility for most climbers. Brand new. Not in the Cronin guidebook. And described here, so that the newbies, seeking out the 5.9 warm-ups, don't go home in a whambulance.

This killer creation sports a V11 boulder problem right off the deck and has lots of 5.11 climbing all the way to the anchors.

This will be a super good route for future generations when global warming stops the rock from seeping. May have an alternative start someday for the mere mortals who wish to skip the crux at the start and enjoy just the fun stuff above.

Location

Located in a mossy patch just downhill and to the left of Princess I Wanna Lay-Ya and Skywalker.

Protection

Stick clips, boulder pads, spotters, belayers, a rope (if you make it past the first bolt), aid gear and a bunch of draws.

Photos

Franck Vee  
 
Tip to self: check MP BEFORE launching into some random route thinking it's a 5.9 warm-up.

To my defense, the description in the guidebook somewhat fits - "the beginning if much harder than 5.9, stick clip & pull or try the move".

I did find the rest of it somewhat stiff for a 5.9, but then it was the first climb of the day so I figured I might just have been off my shoes. Fun moves above the impossible boulder start. Even at the first draw, it's still stiff crimpy bouldering, no 13 but solid 11 still.

Above, I'm not sure I would call it 11, when I got down (and saw there was 2 more routes to the right which would be the actual 5.9) I was thinking hard 10s, something like 10d. My estimation isn't worth much, given 1st climb of day and expecting 5.9 however... I'd be happy if we could call it 11 though because I fell in it and usually like to think I don't fall anymore on 10s... Aug 1, 2017