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Routes in Warm Up Wall

Black Rainbow S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Coin Operated Space Cruiser S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Lame-O S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Princess, I Wanna Lay-Ya. S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Skywalker S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Coins
Page Views: 57 total, 1/month
Shared By: BBQ on Jul 14, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Like Lando's Lame Laser Blaster...Just More Fun and Functional.

A very satisfying upper level 5.10 on unattractive yet bullet-proof rock. SICK MOVES! This climb is chock full of strenuous, thuggy terrain followed by loads of questionable small holds which lead "OH THANK GOD!" jugs that are not obvious. Attack a crack. Pull a pocket. Pull your pud after calling take. Tons of thinker moves will make you use your feet precisely right. A DIFFICULT CLIMB TO READ! Not an easy onsight or redpoint.

If you are looking for a 5.10 to just "mess around on" because you are too pumped from a few days of Spearfish Canyon climbing just do yourself a favor and just keep walking. This Dark Side masterpiece is stiff for the grade and falls into the category of a route that is meant for climbers who crush. Climbers who frequent The Gunks will love it. Gym punks need not apply.

Location

Literally in front of the trail! It will be the first climb you see once you exit the forest and get onto the traverse trail. Located about 10 seconds to the left of Princess I Wanna Lay-Ya. Belay from the rock ledge not from the trail or the mossy area below.

Protection

10 quickdraws and open anchors.

Photos

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