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Routes in Jungturm

Direkter Normalweg T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kirschnerweg T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Franz Kirschner & A. Betz, 7/20/1915
Page Views: 31 total, 0/month
Shared By: Sarah Meiser on Jul 4, 2011
Admins: Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description

P1: Climb a steep and highly enjoyable hand/fist crack to a comfortable belay ledge with an old fixed pin at the southwest edge of the tower.

P2: From the belay ledge step left and pull a couple of airy moves up a bulging step to reach the easier face above. Once past this initial difficulty make your way more or less straight up following the line of least resistance through a lichen horror show to the summit. When dry we didn't find the lichen to cause any problems but there was a LOT of it!

Those that want to enjoy the awesome crack on pitch one and forego the licheny second pitch may choose to rappel from the bolt at the belay ledge. Don't expect rap anchor redundancy in this area though; a single old bolt seems to be the norm.

If you're interested in a cleaner route to the summit from the top of pitch one and feel up to it, climb the second pitch of Südwestkante (5.9). From the belay ledge go straight up a steep face past five bolts. This is apparently a popular combination.

Location

Look for an attractive crack system about 10 feet to climber's left of the southwest corner of the tower.

To descend from the summit rappel west from a large bolt. A 60 meter rope gets you all the way down but there are at least 2 more intermediate anchors that are obvious along the way if you need them.

Protection

Protects very well with medium sized gear to 3 inches.

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