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Routes in Little Wilson

American Dream S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Aqua Lung S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Climb With A View S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Code 3 S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dragon, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Duty, Honor, Country S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fin, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fire Ants S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
First Encounter S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Got Hops? S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jean Claude Trans-Am (F.A. 2001) S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jigsaw, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Let's Roll S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Ron Rico S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slipstream: V3 (F.A. 2006) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tanqueray S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tiny Gun S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wall of Voodoo S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wizard, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 976 total, 12/month
Shared By: TomCaldwell on Jul 4, 2011
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

Another funky wild climb. Look for the "bird's nest" above a big roof to the right of the dihedral.

Gain the big ledge shared with the Dragon and Code 3. Stand up on some loose blocks on the ledge to get to the first jugs in the dihedral. Make the slightly reachy clip out right, don't blow it. Start up the sustained dihedral to get to the next bolt out left. Make even more tough moves to gain the next bolt and work your way around the tricky roof. Clip one last bolt and make a few more steep moves to the anchors.

Location

The climb starts in the middle of the wall and in the middle of the big ledge. You should see a cluster of sticks above a big roof. The climb is just to the right this nest of sticks.

Protection

4 bolts to a two bolt anchor.

Photos

JFurst
Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
JFurst   Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
has a really fun move after the third bolt! much more enjoyable than it looked! Oct 22, 2015