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Routes in Little Wilson

American Dream S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Aqua Lung S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Climb With A View S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Code 3 S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dragon, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Duty, Honor, Country S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fin, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fire Ants S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
First Encounter S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Got Hops? S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jean Claude Trans-Am (F.A. 2001) S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jigsaw, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Let's Roll S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Ron Rico S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slipstream: V3 (F.A. 2006) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tanqueray S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tiny Gun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wall of Voodoo S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wizard, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,318 total · 27/month
Shared By: TomCaldwell on Aug 29, 2011
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

Fun and interesting 5.9. This is will keep your attention at every bolt. A difficult or pumpy move will allow you to surmount each bolt.

Start just right of Jigsaw on a face laced with jugs. Climb the face until you reach a ledge. Clip the second hidden bolt, sling long, and make a tough move to get onto the ledge. Get into the left facing dihedral, clip the bolt, and figure out the technical moves to get you under the overhanging section. Clip the final bolt and get steep! Fun jugs to the anchors.

Location

This is the second line on the wall just right on Jigsaw. First line of bolts on the face up the hill.

Protection

QD's for 4 bolts, one long draw for second bolt. Chains with carabiners for anchors. These carabiners may require occasional replacement, so check for pitting. A 60m or smaller will get you down.

Photos

Kelly Wykoff
  5.9+
Kelly Wykoff  
  5.9+
Added carabiners to the chains on July 4, 2018. It appears the old ones disappeared at some point. This route was a little annoying to clean, so hopefully these help the process. If they get old and worn, feel free to replace. Jul 5, 2018

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