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Routes in Little Wilson

American Dream S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Aqua Lung S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Climb With A View S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Code 3 S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dragon, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Duty, Honor, Country S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fin, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fire Ants S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
First Encounter S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Got Hops? S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jean Claude Trans-Am (F.A. 2001) S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jigsaw, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Let's Roll S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Ron Rico S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slipstream: V3 (F.A. 2006) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tanqueray S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tiny Gun S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wall of Voodoo S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wizard, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport
FA: Heath Bailey. September, 2011.
Page Views: 651 total · 10/month
Shared By: Heath Bailey on Jul 4, 2012
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

Clip the first bolt after making your way to the first ledge at 15'. Launch through the dihedral using inventive beta with stems, face crimps, crack features and a good undercling high. Reach your way through steep terrain and pull onto the arete for a good shake. Steep jugs lead to a sizeable V5 toss off good edges to gain the anchors.

This line was bolted early in the cliff's development but was shelved for a later send, left undone and unprotected through its high crux. Three bolts were added with the good graces of the line's original authors and the route was completed in the early Fall of 2011. Pascal Roberts also climbed the low steep dihedral into Code 3 (2009?) before the top was protected and done.

The low dihedral seeps a great deal of the year so if you find it dry, consider yourself lucky and have a go at it!

Location

This route lies between Let's Roll and Code 3. It takes the steepest line on the cliff to the right side of the 'plank' at its top.

Protection

7 bolts and dual quickshuts for anchors.

Photos

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