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Routes in Little Wilson

American Dream S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Aqua Lung S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Climb With A View S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Code 3 S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dragon, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Duty, Honor, Country S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fin, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fire Ants S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
First Encounter S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Got Hops? S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jean Claude Trans-Am (F.A. 2001) S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jigsaw, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Let's Roll S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Ron Rico S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slipstream: V3 (F.A. 2006) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tanqueray S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tiny Gun S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wall of Voodoo S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wizard, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,668 total · 33/month
Shared By: TomCaldwell on Jul 4, 2011
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

Steep jugs! No other way to describe this area classic. Probably the best route on the wall and deservedly so.

Gain the ledge below the route by either starting out left (harder) or out right. Traverse the big ledge to get below the first bolt on the route. Start cranking on the jugs to get to the first bolt. Make a slightly reach move to get to the first section of steepness. Clip another bolt and the wall goes back to vertical. Get another bolt just below the big roof. Move up and left to gain the next big ledge and clip the bolt at the edge of the big roof out right. Surmount the final roof and clip the sport shuts.

Location

The route starts around the arete with the project inside the steep dihedral. Look for big chalked up jugs through some steep rock. Only route with sport shuts.

Protection

4 bolts to sport shuts. A 60m will get you down.

Photos

zachj
 
zachj  
 
This route currently has two loose bolts (numbers 2 and 3 I believe) and one of the anchors (left) is very loose and spins.
Also, I agree with 10a rating (10b max). Sep 10, 2017
double delay
Mancos, CO
 
double delay   Mancos, CO
 
agree with the 10+ rating. 11a isn't totally unwarranted as the climb is longer and steeper than most boone climbs Jul 15, 2014
Rick Carpenter
Kenai, Alaska
  5.10a/b
Rick Carpenter   Kenai, Alaska
  5.10a/b
Isn't that steep and every hold is a jug, this is .10a/b at best. Dec 30, 2013
Cody Bradford
Boone, NC
 
Cody Bradford   Boone, NC
 
Definitely not 11a. It will make you feel stronger though if you tell yourself it is and flash it! Mar 3, 2013
This route was originally rated 5.10b/c. Sep 3, 2012