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Routes in Little Wilson

American Dream S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Aqua Lung S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Climb With A View S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Code 3 S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dragon, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Duty, Honor, Country S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fin, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fire Ants S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
First Encounter S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Got Hops? S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jean Claude Trans-Am (F.A. 2001) S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jigsaw, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Let's Roll S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Ron Rico S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slipstream: V3 (F.A. 2006) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tanqueray S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tiny Gun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wall of Voodoo S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wizard, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,143 total · 14/month
Shared By: TomCaldwell on Aug 29, 2011
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

Get your boulder on! Very steep climbing with a sustained boulder section.

Gain the starting ledge using one of the many means. Start up some big face holds to the first bolt below the overhang. Move left and up into the left facing dihedral and clip the bolt on the overhanging face. Gain some high hands and make the explosive moves to the crimp rail. Continue moving right through the difficult moves to gain the large sloping ledge out right. Heel hook slap and finagle your way into position for the final clip. Make some more difficult moves to better holds using the sloping holds to the anchor.

Location

First route on the main ledge. Just right of Tiny Gun.

Protection

QD's for 3 bolts. Two bolt anchor at the top. Rappel with a 60m or smaller.

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