Type: Trad
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Shared By: Andrew R. on May 4, 2011
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones

You & This Route

8 Opinions

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Low angle groove to crack above




David Raines  
The 5.9 crux is the obvious overhanging hand / fist crack. The crux isn't terribly long, but its above a small ledge. I actually brought up my 2nd, and did the moves with a closer belay, just to feel more secure. Fun route, though, if you're up there and can lead 5.9 cracks. Jul 3, 2013
Great route for the crux being so short.

Crux is getting feet to pull up and continue with hand jams.

Gear anchor. Aug 18, 2013
Bob Ewing
Bob Ewing   Arlington
First pitch is slab, medium to big cams. Lots of lichen. Goes up to a ledge beneath the crux. I took David Raines's advice: I built an anchor on the ledge before the crux and belayed my partner up. This way you can communicate better with your belayer, have more gear for the second pitch, and as David says have your partner nearby when you do the crux.

The crux is a ~ 12 foot slightly overhanging crack with high feet. As K Baumgartner says, getting your feet into the overhanging crack at the beginning is the hardest part. Excellent jams, #2, #3 cams. It was hard for me, I was happy to get the onsight. Nov 5, 2013
Simon Beardsley
West, USA
Simon Beardsley   West, USA
Contrary to the blue line in the "Beta Photo", I highly recommend going up and left after the crux crack for full value. May 20, 2017