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Routes in Summit Crags

Beginner Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Groovy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pedestal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pure Fun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tons of Fun T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Cracks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,187 total · 15/month
Shared By: Andrew R. on May 4, 2011
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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up twin cracks to black streak. follow around the right side of the roof to slab


not sure


Jake Jones
Richmond, VA
Jake Jones   Richmond, VA  
I think the slab you're referring to, with the wide crack that runs up a slabby dihedral, is one of the "Pedestal" variations. And for the record, I totally agree, except I don't think it's harder than 5.7. My buddy stole my 4 and 5 to do something else in the area, so the biggest I had was a 3. I placed it at the beginning of that slabby dihedral and when I got past it and looked at runout groundfall potential, I bailed. My buddy, having a solid runout lead head, moved past it and pasted sketchy, licheny smears with his left, and heel-toe cammed with his right, all the way up until he could plug a 2 at the lip before you pull that small bulge. If you have at least 1 #5 or #6 to plug somewhere in that slabby crack, it's relatively PG13. Without it, definitely R. Good to see some folks up on the Rag pulling some of those great routes. Aug 19, 2013
Jake Jones
Richmond, VA
Jake Jones   Richmond, VA  
The slab I'm talking about is to climber's left of Pure Fun, so nowhere near Groovy. I misunderstood what you were saying and from the description you offered, it seemed like the same place/route. If you look at the route lines pic, the ledge with the horizontal undercling (left edge of the pic, left of PF) is where you end up if you climb the route I was referring to. It finishes either straight up, or you can traverse right and end up at the same place where you build an anchor for Pure Fun. Aug 26, 2013
Thanks for the comments Jake.

I've done Pedestal before and we were uphill from that route. I led up the route outlined in Eric Horst's book and as identified in the overview photo here on MP.

Not sure to which dihedral you're referring. The Twin Cracks route that I thought I was on went up the cracks and then into the corner on the left. It's definitely off width.

If you check out my photos from atop Groovy, the route I bailed on is to climbers left about 15-20 feet in the corner. Aug 25, 2013
Not sure what the "slab" reference is to when you go around the corner.

This is an off-width crack that will require probably one each of #3-6.

I placed a #3 and #4, tried to work off the moves, then bailed over to Groovy.

I'm not the best with off-width, but pulling up into the crack felt harder than 5.7. Crescent Moon at the New--an offwidth--was easier than this route. Aug 18, 2013