Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,748 total · 36/month
Shared By: C Runyan on Sep 4, 2008 with improvements by Sal Crano
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones

You & This Route


25 Opinions

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Description

Climb a face up a left-leaning crack, and pass a piton. Head straight up an overhang (slightly runout). Or, escape left and run a second pitch up a chimney (5.6).

Protection

trad

Photos

This is a full value 5.7

Thin route requires a versatile set of skills from hand/finger jams and roof strength leading to slab finesse. There are two ways to pull the roof--both are equally awkward.

Anchor: At the ledge, build an anchor in the horizontal crack with bigger gear. I used a #1 & #2 Camalot and a large hex. Aug 18, 2013
Stuart Parker
Missoula, MT
 
Stuart Parker   Missoula, MT
 
This rock is insanely good! It bites so hard your belayer will feel it! I highly suggest starting in the slanting crack down the hill. It's splitter, the same grade and a more direct line. Super fun route! Mar 16, 2014
Jonathan Trowbridge
Richmond, Virginia
5.9
Jonathan Trowbridge   Richmond, Virginia
5.9
Route was much harder than a 7 in my own opinion but my trad head isn't strong. We couldn't figure out how to pull the roof after a long day of hiking but were able to bail on the horn to the left hand side using a double length sling and carabiner. I'll be back... Mar 23, 2015
Josh Rymer
Arlington, VA
 
Josh Rymer   Arlington, VA
 
There is a piton "protecting" the roof but its far enough below the roof that you might want additional gear. I was able to get a #2 into the initial flake you have your hands in when starting the roof pull. Aug 26, 2018
Caveman Y
NO VA
  5.7+
Caveman Y   NO VA
  5.7+
The piton “protecting” the roof is in the crack below it and over driven. You can thread it with a small wire. The route is a delight, splitter cracks, incut holds every time a crack ends, and then once you pull the roof they go away. You best place a high cam unless you have some slab/mantle skills. The top out is kinda vague. I followed a clean streak over large flakes but it ended being cleaned from water flow and was still flowing. Apr 28, 2019