Type: Trad, Aid, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Jeremy Higle Jonathan Parker
Page Views: 814 total · 6/month
Shared By: Jeremy Higle on Apr 15, 2011
Admins: Gunkswest, Gokul G

You & This Route


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Description

This route was originally done ground up and had no bolts. In 2013 anchors were added and bolts were placed to reduce the runouts.

This line was the most obvious crack system up the middle of the face. It is up and right of climbs like Hiram Crack and 2ABC. The climbing gets harder with each pitch. The crux is the last pitch, which pulls over a five foot roof on aid. On the first ascent, the crack through the roof was full of dirt and patches of grass and was aided using pins. If cleaned it will go free, probably at 5.11.

Location

The Raisin and the Ant start is just up the hill to the right.

P1:Climb up past bolts to an anchor at the base of the crack (5.7, 30m)

P2: Climb up the main crack (30m)

P3: Continue up the crack (30m)

P4: Climb up to a five foot roof. Aid (or free) through this and up to the top (5.9 A2, 30m)

Rappel the route.

Protection

In 2013, bolt anchors were placed for four 30m pitches so you can rap the route with at least a 60m rope. 

Photos