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Routes in Shey Rock

9 TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
2ABC S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Baby Thali TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Broken Foot S,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
E.T. B.T. S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fire, The S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Frying Pan, The S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hiram Crack S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Julley S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Leh'd Back S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Chimney S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Push, Pull, Pray S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Raisin and the Ant T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Shey Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2 PG13
Snap, Crackle, Pop Left S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snap, Crackle, Pop Right S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Taley S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Upside Down Backwards 5 S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Aid, 400 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Jeremy Higle Jonathan Parker
Page Views: 449 total · 5/month
Shared By: Jeremy Higle on Apr 15, 2011
Admins: Gokul

You & This Route


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Description

UPDATE 2013 - Anchors and run-outs are now bolted to make it tourist friendly. This line was the most obvious crack system up the middle of the face. No bolts at all on this ground up trad line. The climbing gets harder with each pitch. The crux is the last pitch which pulls over a 5 foot roof. The belay is bomber cams but I had to hammer a couple of pins to pull the roof. It may be 5.11 range but there is no clean pro for the first 25 feet and a fall would be directly on the belay anchor. The crack in the final pitch like all unclimbed routes is full of dirt and patches of grass. If cleaned it will go free.

Location

Use you imagination for the first moderate pitch up to where the main crack starts. Raisin and the Ant's start is just up the hill. There are lots of variations and I don't think my 2nd ascent of Raisin was exactly like the FA by Calvin. That's sort of the fun of the area. It is real, old school trad. But be careful the hospital in Leh is a dump so you have to get a flight to delhi if you get hurt.

Protection

UPDATE 2013 Anchors bolted for four 30m pitches so you can rap the same line back down. Full rack. The rap line is the same as "Raisen and the Ant" Walk (with belay) around to the back of the big summit boulder. There will be some slings threaded to rap down to the bolts. 30m rap down the gully will get you down to a ramp where you can walk to the only two bolts and then rap down into a small gully to walk the rest of the way down.

Photos

The first pitch is now bolted. I believe this as an add on and not a pitch that Jeremy did on the FA. It's super easy (5.7) and a nice link up. The belay anchor on the second pitch (considering the aforementioned pitch) is now bolted. GREAT route! Jul 16, 2013