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Routes in Sunshine Wall (River Road area)
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Mad Cowboy Disease T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Manic Monday T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Road to Nowhere T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Sandstoner's Highway S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Shock and Awe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Smoking Gun S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wide Open Spaces T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
| Type: | Trad, Sport, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 38.3682, -108.8154 |
| FA: | Joe Coniglio, Charlie Fowler, 2003 |
| Page Views: | 2,058 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | S.Mckinna on Mar 27, 2011 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
The climb starts up hollow flakes to a couple of bolts that gain a ledge below a crack. From here, you can belay or just continue up the crack over one bolt and into another crack that gains a ledge with a bolted anchor (100 feet).
Pitch 2 starts with the crux move over a bolt and up into a fun jam crack that eventually leads back to the face up more bolts to a ledge with a bolted anchor (100 feet).
Location
The route starts just to the right of a short 4 bolt line that goes up to the first ledge with anchors. It is to the right of Sandstoner's Highway.
Protection
At least six draws and several long runners are needed. A set of TCUs and doubles of Camalots #1-3 should be more than enough. The second rap station may need webbing.
Per FS: rock gear, shoes (added cams, lowered prices): a new stainless steel chain anchor has been installed at the top of the first pitch in January 2022. The old webbing and cord was removed.
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