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Routes in Sunshine Wall (River Road area)

Mad Cowboy Disease T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Manic Monday T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Road to Nowhere T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sandstoner's Highway S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shock and Awe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Smoking Gun S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wide Open Spaces T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Joel Coniglio, Damon Johnston, Charlie Fowler, 2003
Page Views: 1,574 total, 19/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Mar 26, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route is left-center of the Sunshine Wall, right about where the approach trail hits.

Find a line of bolts to the left of the crack system in the center of the slab. There is one route just to the left (Road to Nowhere) that has a couple of bolts visible from the ground, but this is the leftmost route where the entire line of bolts can be seen.

P1: Climb up nicely featured slab to a belay about 90' up on a small ledge. (5.8)

P2: Continue up. A small bulge about 1/2 way up is the crux (5.9). The rest of the lead is easier. 11 bolts, 100'.

Rap the route - a 60m will just suffice.

Protection

Bolts.

Photos

chosspector
San Juans, CO
 
chosspector   San Juans, CO
 
If you use some long runners, this makes an outstanding 200' pitch. Oct 12, 2012