Type: Trad, Sport, 270 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Damon Johnston, Daiva Chesonis, Julie Hodson, Chris Boskoff, and Rick Mendele
Page Views: 138 total · 2/month
Shared By: S.Mckinna on Dec 24, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is the tallest route at the slabs. It's a fun route that feels somewhat adventurous and exposed at times yet straightforward. Most of the rock angle and climbing is the same as the shorter slab to the left.

Pitch 1. 100 feet, 5.9 PG-13: Traverse ledges angling left along six or seven bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Falling would be exciting and any gear through here, if any, would be small. The crux is at the last small corner a couple bolts from the top.

Pitch 2. 110 feet, 5.10+: This is unsustained, move up a crack that stays mostly smaller with a few places for hand sizes along the way. Save a small cam or two (purple TCU) for the crux, a small roof that is easily protected. Finish on a giant ledge left of the crack on the second set of anchors, if you intend to do pitch 3.

Pitch 3. 60 feet, 5.8: This is the best pitch of the climb. Climb up a hand crack flake to the crux fingers crack to a corner. Mantle onto some loose terrain to the obvious 2 bolt anchor.

Rap between small tree and the crack.

Location

To locate the climb take the same approach to sunshine slabs. Once at the wide open spaces wall walk lookers right about 200 yards. The next slab encoutered is the first light wall. The climb is easy to find and starts by some giant boulders, first bolts are across from the boulders.

Protection

2 sets of cams micro to #3 Camalot, 10 or so QDs, one 60m rope, and several long runners. A #4 works if you don't have double #3s. Three 60m raps, all off quicklinks attached to bolts. Bring helmets for the mank.

Photos

S.Mckinna
Cañon City, CO
  5.10+
S.Mckinna   Cañon City, CO
  5.10+
Pitch one anchors can be used to TR the pitch directly (5.12). Didn't try it though. Feb 22, 2012