Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Sunshine Wall (River Road area)

Mad Cowboy Disease T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Manic Monday T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Road to Nowhere T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sandstoner's Highway S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shock and Awe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Smoking Gun S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wide Open Spaces T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Damon Johnson, Summer Colt, 2004
Page Views: 900 total, 11/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Mar 26, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is the leftmost route at the Sunshine Slabs.

P1: Start next to Sandstoner's Highway working up and left through sometimes questionable rock to a belay about 20' right of a pine tree (100'). Some wires nuts / medium small cams can be used in addition to the 4 bolts. (5.8)

P2: Climb up and right, past about 11 bolts, to the top. There is an intermediate belay available, but it is not needed. This is mostly 5.8 with a couple of harder spots.

Rap 3 times on a 60m rope. You can take the 2nd rap to the ledge on Sandstoners for a better anchor. A 70m rope would let you combine the first 2 raps.

Protection

Bolts plus some medium wires / cams.

Photos

coop Best
Glenwood Springs, CO
coop Best   Glenwood Springs, CO
Very runout and loose rock, I would skip this as you first climb at the cliff and start on the others. Oct 28, 2013
S.Mckinna
Cañon City, CO
 
S.Mckinna   Cañon City, CO
 
Unless you really want to get to the top anchors, you could traverse right at the last bolt before the RTN anchor and belay at the top of Sandstoner's anchors instead. From there, you could rap Sandstoner's twice with a 60m to get down. Feb 22, 2012