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Routes in Flakeview Area

Bear Cub S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bear Hunt T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dirty Girl T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Drivin' and Cryin' S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fickle Finger of Fate T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fine Line T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flakeview T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gift Certificate T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gift, The T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gunboat Diplomacy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Out Left T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pillar Of Faith T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scream like a Boy T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Seven Year Itch S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Silent Treatment T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Tom Gallo, Ken Pitts, Ron Sanga
Page Views: 1,261 total, 15/month
Shared By: Tom Gallo on Mar 5, 2011 with updates
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

Climb up to the first bolt and then head left to the second bolt, crux. Climb straight up to the third bolt and then trad to the anchor. You can see the three bolts from the ground. Thin face climbing, not as good as gunboat and not as well traveled. Second pitch is about 5.6 to the tree ledge. [First two bolts are from a line that continues left to a cam flake then up to a one bolt anchor.]

Location

30 ft left of Gunboat, just left of Silent Treatment and just left of a large pine tree which is at the base of the cliff.

Protection

P1, 3 bolts and lots of small cams. Bolted anchor at 100'. P2 trad to rap tree, soon to be bolted anchor.

Photos

I would consider this route 'slightly dicey' for a newer 5.10 trad leader. Use .1/.2 at head height from the ledge, traverse right, throw your heel up if your short, and don't fall for a bit. Small gear wherever you can after the bolts, top is little easier but runout on creaky holds. Nov 26, 2017
Scott Gilliam
Raleigh, NC
 
Scott Gilliam   Raleigh, NC
 
Trees are gone. Thank you! Moves to the 1st bolt are tenuous for the short, seemingly as hard as moving to 2nd and 3rd. Friable patina and hunting gear keep the easier climbing engaging. Maybe missed gear but ended up with a lengthy run between good pieces. Jan 2, 2014
jlane  
Tom, will try to get those trees removed once i jump through the hoops with the park. Mar 9, 2013
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
Don't blow the moves above the 2nd bolt. There is now a dead pine tree that is split in half just below the fall line. This will surely impale someone if they miss the 3rd bolt. I got 2 pieces of gear in at the start, but it won't keep you from hitting the ground. It is mainly there to prevent a big tumble, especially now that there is so much debris from the pine tree. Feb 19, 2013
Jeff Mekolites
ATL GA
  5.10-
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
  5.10-
Heads up thin balancy climbing past the first couple of bolts. Seemed harder than the suggested grade...maybe holds have gotten smaller or maybe a high gravity day.

Booty'ed a leaver biner on the third bolt. Anyones? Apr 17, 2012
Mark O'Neal
Nicholson, GA
Mark O'Neal   Nicholson, GA
I thought the lower part through the bolts was the hardest of the climbs on this wall. P1 Gunboat Diplomacy was the easiest Apr 16, 2012
CDC
 
CDC  
 
{So Beware}the high piece which for me was a purple or 0 metolius and was very good, but would not keep you from Terra Firma if you fall off the difficult technical moves to first bolt! Otherwise good Rt.
C Caldwell Dec 30, 2011