Type: Trad, Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Tom Gallo, Ken Pitts, Ron Sanga
Page Views: 1,504 total · 15/month
Shared By: Tom Gallo on Mar 5, 2011 with updates from Brian Abram and 1 other
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

Climb up to the first bolt and then head left to the second bolt, crux. Climb straight up to the third bolt and then trad to a rap anchor, 30 meters. You can see the three bolts from the ground.  [First two bolts are from a line that continues left to a cam flake then up to a one bolt anchor.] Thin face climbing, lots of small gear. Second pitch is about 5.6 to the tree ledge and a two bolt rap anchor, new 2019. The third pitch, "Silent Scream", goes up and slightly right to a single bolt, then up to a two bolt rap anchor, 31 meters, 5.8?  [This anchor is the start of an always wet crack that goes up and right to...]  To descend rap 31 meters back to the tree ledge, then 28 meters to the top of the first pitch of Scream and then 31 meters to the ground.  

Location

30 ft left of Gunboat, just left of Silent Treatment and starts at the stump of a burned up pine tree.

Protection

P1, 3 bolts and lots of small cams. Bolted anchor at 30 meters. P2 trad to rap anchor, 28 meters. P3, trad and one bolt to a rap anchor, 31 meters. 

Photos

CDC
 
CDC  
 
{So Beware}the high piece which for me was a purple or 0 metolius and was very good, but would not keep you from Terra Firma if you fall off the difficult technical moves to first bolt! Otherwise good Rt.
C Caldwell Dec 30, 2011
Mark O'Neal
Nicholson, GA
Mark O'Neal   Nicholson, GA
I thought the lower part through the bolts was the hardest of the climbs on this wall. P1 Gunboat Diplomacy was the easiest Apr 16, 2012
Jeff Mekolites
ATL GA
  5.10-
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
  5.10-
Heads up thin balancy climbing past the first couple of bolts. Seemed harder than the suggested grade...maybe holds have gotten smaller or maybe a high gravity day.

Booty'ed a leaver biner on the third bolt. Anyones? Apr 17, 2012
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
Don't blow the moves above the 2nd bolt. There is now a dead pine tree that is split in half just below the fall line. This will surely impale someone if they miss the 3rd bolt. I got 2 pieces of gear in at the start, but it won't keep you from hitting the ground. It is mainly there to prevent a big tumble, especially now that there is so much debris from the pine tree. Feb 19, 2013
Jon Lane
Asheville, NC
Jon Lane   Asheville, NC
Tom, will try to get those trees removed once i jump through the hoops with the park. Mar 9, 2013
Scott Gilliam
Raleigh, NC
 
Scott Gilliam   Raleigh, NC
 
Trees are gone. Thank you! Moves to the 1st bolt are tenuous for the short, seemingly as hard as moving to 2nd and 3rd. Friable patina and hunting gear keep the easier climbing engaging. Maybe missed gear but ended up with a lengthy run between good pieces. Jan 2, 2014
I would consider this route kinda dicey for a newer 5.10 trad leader. Use .1/.2 at head height from the ledge, traverse right, throw your heel up if your short, and don't fall for a bit. Small gear wherever you can after the bolts, top is little easier but runout on creaky holds. Nov 26, 2017
Can the description be updated to 3 pitches and 90 meters? Jan 2, 2019
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
P1 very cool, pretty hard, I think the hardest on this wall. It's 110 feet to the 2-bolt anchor, so with a 60m rope you won't be able to lower. Tricky sequences. Feb 25, 2019